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Hótel Hellnar ( 435 6820; www.hellnar.is; s/d incl breakfast from €120/140; 10 May-10 Sep; ) is the area’s choice sleeping option. The twin-bedded rooms are sun-filled and simple (cards with self-esteem mantras are inexplicably placed on the pillows in lieu of the usual chocolate). The restaurant (dinner mains Ikr2600 to Ikr3500) earns brownie points for its use of local organic produce.

It’s well worth following the rickety stone path down to the ocean’s edge for a meal at quaint Fjöruhúsið ( 435 6844; fish soup Ikr1650; 10am-10pm late Apr-early Oct). It’s located at the trailhead of the scenic Hellnar–Arnarstapi path (see the boxed text).

Arnarstapi

Linked to Hellnar by both the main road and a must-do coastal hike Click here, this hamlet of summer cottages is nestled between the churning arctic waters and the gnarled pillars of a neighbouring lava field. A recently erected monument pays tribute to Jules Verne with a wooden information panel and comical signpost measuring distances to major cities through the core of the earth.

Arnarstapi is the best place to organise an ascent to the glacial crown. Snowmobile tours on the glacier are run by Snjófell ( 435 6783; www.snjofell.is). In summer snowcat tours of the glacier cost Ikr6500 per person (minimum of six people), or there’s a snowmobile tour for Ikr10,500 per person/Ikr12,500 for a solo ski-do (minimum of two people). Trips run every two hours until midnight and last for around 1½ hours.

The tours start at the edge of the snowfield, so you’ll have to drive along the bumpy Rte F570 towards the summit. Road conditions can be uncertain, so it’s best to ask at Snjófell for details when purchasing your tour ticket. Taxis to the top can be negotiated if you don’t have your own wheels or if the roads are damaged. Note that the summit should always be approached from the south (from Arnarstapi). The northern part of Rte F570 (near Ólafsvík) is often closed and never suitable for a 2WD (see the boxed text, for vital information about F roads).

As you drive up from Arnarstapi you’ll pass Stapafell (526m), the supposed home to the local little people – you’ll see miniature house gables painted onto rocks in their honour. Further along you’ll pass a collapsed crater, which has created a series of strange lava caves about 1.5km from the main road. The largest cave is Sönghellir (Song Cave), which is full of 18th-century graffiti and is rumoured to resound with the songs of dwarfs. Bring a torch or use the flash of your camera to read the various markings of passers-by and don’t be shy about belting out your favourite melody.

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SAVE IT FOR A RAINY DAY!

Rainy days in Iceland? Oh yes, there are many. But don’t let the drizzle make your holiday plans fizzle – there are several stunning landscapes that are even more dramatic in the rain, including the scenic 2.5km walk (around 40 minutes) between Hellnar and Arnarstapi. This slender trail follows the jagged coastline, passing frozen lava flows and eroded stone caves. During bouts of tumultuous weather the waves pound through the rocky arches like water spraying out of a blowhole. After your jaunt, reward yourself with a hearty repast at one of the cleverly positioned restaurants plunked on either side of the trail. If you finish in Hellnar, savour a perfected recipe for fish soup at Fjöruhúsið, while those who end up in Arnarstapi can treat themselves to the daily catch at Ferðaþjónustan Snjófell.

Don’t get us wrong however; this short walk is absolutely stunning on a sunny day as well!

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Snjófell also offers accommodation and dining at Ferðaþjónustan Snjófell ( 435 6783; www.snjofell.is, www.hringhotels.is; tent Ikr1500, plus electricity Ikr500, sb/d Ikr2500/7000) in Arnarstapi. Travellers can pitch a tent on a grassy patch outside (sorry, no showers) or plop their sleeping bag down in the prefab guest house. The menu in the turf-roofed restaurant (meals Ikr1890 to Ikr3490) focuses on the delicious