Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [137]
Rauðfeldsgjá
Past Stapafell, a small track branches east off Rte 574 to Rauðfeldsgjá, a steep and narrow cleft that mysteriously disappears into the cliff wall. A stream runs along the bottom of the gorge, and you can slink between the sheer walls for quite a distance.
Breiðavík & Búðavík
East of Hellnar and Arnarstapi, Rte 574 skirts the edges of the long sandy bays at Breiðavík and Búðavík. These windswept beaches are covered in yellow-grey sand and are wonderfully peaceful places to walk. At Búðavík the abandoned fishing village of Búðir has a stunningly lonely church, and is now home to one of Iceland’s best country hotels. From the hotel, a walking trail leads across the elf-infested Buðahraun lava field to the crater Búðaklettur. According to local legend a lava tube beneath Buðahraun, paved with gold and precious stones, leads all the way to Surtshellir. It takes about three hours to walk to the crater and back.
Windswept, lonely and very romantic, Hótel Búðir ( 435 6700; www.budir.is; d incl breakfast Ikr26,000-36,000, ste Ikr44,500; ) is a sleek, stylish hotel with an understated-yet-regal design and not a hint of pretension. Expect elegant furnishings, DVD players and plasma TVs, and – if you’re lucky enough to bag No 23 – a freestanding bath separated from the bedroom by a wooden screen. No 28 has the best views (and a teeny tiny balcony). The house chef grew up on the peninsula and knows his local ingredients better than anyone else in the region. Try the eight-course kitchen special (Ikr8100) or go for one of the perfected fish dishes. If you’re going to splash out at any point on your trip, this is the place to do it.
Fed by a geothermic source, serene Lýsuhóll ( 435 6716; www.lysuholl.is; s/d/cottages Ikr10,000/15,000/10,500) sits inland, just a few kilometres beyond Búðir. Horse riding (90 minutes/two hours/day trip Ikr3500/5000/12,000), swimming and brand new cottage accommodation makes this a good choice.
The golf-centric Gistihúsið Langaholt ( 435 6789; www.langaholt.is; Görðum; sites per person Ikr750, s/d incl breakfast Ikr9500-16,000; ) feels more like a motel, offering a long strip of tasteful rooms. Nine holes of golf costs Ikr2000 (clubs available for rent). Book ahead.
Further along, friendly Gistiheimilið Hof ( 435 6802; www.gistihof.is; d sb/linen Ikr8000/10,000) has a selection of turf-roofed apartment-style accommodation with shared kitchens, living rooms and bathrooms. Ask the owners about the local colony of barking seals and don’t forget to take a dip in the relaxing hot pots.
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DALIR
The scenic corridor between west Iceland and the Westfjords served as the setting for the Laxdæla Saga, the most popular of the Icelandic sagas. The story revolves around a love triangle between Guðrun Ósvífursdóttir, said to be the most beautiful woman in Iceland, and the foster brothers Kjartan Ólafsson and Bolli Þorleiksson. In typical saga fashion, Guðrun had both men wrapped around her little finger and schemed and connived until both of them were dead – Kjartan at the hands of Bolli, and Bolli at the hands of Kjartan’s brothers. Most Icelanders know the stories and characters by heart and hold the area in which the story took place in great historic esteem.
It’s worth picking up a free copy of the excellent Dalasýsla Heritage Map available at the tourist information centre in Búðardalur or at the hotel in Laugar. Hikers should invest in the Vestfirðir & Dalir £7 map (available at most regional information centres for a nominal fee).
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EIRÍKSSTAÐIR
The farm Eiríksstaðir, across the Haukadalsá from Stóra-Vatnshorn’s church, was the home of Eiríkur Rauðe (Erik the Red), father of Leifur Eiríksson, believed to be the first European to visit America. Although only a faint outline of the original farm remains, an impressive reconstruction of the farm ( 434 1118; www.leif.is; adult/under 12yr Ikr800/free; 9am-6pm Jun-Sep) has been built using only the tools and materials