Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [141]
The local tourist information centre ( 892 2240; 11am-6pm Jun–mid-Aug) has a great map of the Westfjords (free!) and doubles as a tiny folk museum (admission Ikr500) covered in black-and-white photos of pioneers. There’s an N1 petrol station next door.
Gistiheimilið Álftaland (Reykhólar HI Hostel; 434 7878; www.alftaland.is; sites per person Ikr1000, sb/s/d Ikr4000/7500/9900; ) meets all accommodation needs with clean and comfy rooms, a soothing hot pot, and a large kitchen available for guest use.
Bjarkalundur
On Rte 60, just beyond the turn-off to Reykhólar, is Hótel Bjarkalundur ( 434 7762, 434 7863; www.bjarkalundur.is; sites per tent Ikr1000, s/d incl breakfast Ikr7000/9500; Easter-Sep, then weekends to New Year), a large farmhouse with a petrol station and a restaurant (sandwiches from Ikr750, pizzas from Ikr1090).
Buses run between Reykjavík and Bjarkar-lundur (3¾ hours), via Króksfjarðarnes in Dalir, every day except Wednesday and Saturday. There’s no bus service between Bjarkalundur and Flókalundur or Brjánslækur.
Djúpadalur
Heading west, you’ll come across the steaming waterfalls in the Djúpadalur geothermal field, 20km west of Bjarkalundur. There’s an indoor geothermal swimming pool ( 434 7853; adult/under 14yr Ikr250/100; 8am-11pm) here and good accommodation at the welcoming nine-bed Guesthouse Djúpadalur ( 434 7853; sb/linen Ikr3000/3500).
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FLÓKALUNDUR TO PATREKSFJÖRÐUR
After driving over a series of stunningly desolate fjords, you’ll reach Flókalundur, the junction point between the road up to Ísafjörður and the bumpy route to the southwestern peninsulas.
Flókalundur
The two-house ‘town’ of Flókalundur was named after the Viking explorer Hrafna-Flóki Vilgerðarson (Click here), who gave Iceland its name in AD 860. Today, the most interesting thing in the area is the Vatnsfjörður Nature Reserve, established to protect the area around Lake Vatnsdalsvatn, a nesting site for harlequin ducks and great northern divers (loons). Various hiking trails run around the lake and into the hills beyond.
Pick up a Vatnsfjörður hiking brochure at Hótel Flókalundur ( 456 2011; www.flokalundur.is; sites per person Ikr750, s/d incl breakfast Ikr10,500/13,800; mid-May–mid-Sep), an ageing wooden bungalow-style hotel with small, wood-panelled rooms, a decent restaurant (mains Ikr850 to Ikr1920; open breakfast, lunch and dinner), a superette (open 9am to 11pm) selling wrapped sandwiches, and a petrol station. Down the road at Flókalaug is a thermal swimming pool ( 456 2011; adult/under 12yr Ikr100/50; 10am-noon & 4-7pm). At high tide, do as the locals do and jump in the frigid sea, then run back to the pool to warm up.
Brjánslækur
Brjánslækur is nothing more than the terminus for the Baldur ferry from Stykkishólmur. Bus schedules are loosely timed to connect with the ferry; Click here for details about buses to/from Ísafjörður and Látrabjarg.
Brjánslækur to Patreksfjörður
After the ferry terminal, Rte 62 follows the sandy coast, passing several sleeping options, until it reaches the top of scenic Patreksfjörður, marking the beginning of the southwest peninsulas.
About 8km west of Brjánslækur, opposite a lovely white-sand beach, you can stay at Gistihúsið Rauðsdal ( 456 2041; raudsdal@vortex.is; sb/linen Ikr2500/3000), which has decent rooms and a guest kitchen. Reception is in the white house.
At Krossholt, 14km west of Brjánslækur, you’ll find Bjarkarholt ( 456 2025; torfi@vesturbyggd.is; sb/apt Ikr3000/12,000) and Arnarholt ( 456 2080; silja@snerpa.is; sb Ikr3000) next door, which runs the geothermal pool on the shore.
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SOUTHWEST PENINSULAS
The trident-shaped peninsulas in the southwest of the Westfjords are spectacularly scenic.