Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [142]
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LÁTRABJARG PENINSULA
Best known for its dramatic cliffs and abundant bird life, the Látrabjarg Peninsula also has wonderful deserted beaches and plenty of opportunities for long, leisurely walks.
Joining Rte 612 from Rte 62, you’ll pass the rusting hulk of the fishing boat Garðar near the head of the fjord before passing the empty, golden beaches around the airstrip at Sauðlauksdalur. In Hnjótur, about 10km further on, it’s worth stopping at the entertaining Minjasafn Egils Ólafssonar ( 456 1511; www.hnjotur.is; adult/under 14yr Ikr600/free; 10am-6pm mid-May–mid-Sep). The eclectic collection includes salvaged fishing boats, old aircraft and displays on the history of the region. There’s a fantastic on-site cafe (snacks from Ikr180) specialising in local food, including razorbill eggs plucked from the cliffs. Jump online with wi-fi while you’re there.
At Breiðavík, a stunning golden-sand beach is framed by rocky cliffs and the turquoise waters of the bay. It’s an idyllic spot, certainly one of Iceland’s best beaches and usually deserted. Should you find yourself with more company than you’d hoped for, head further on to Hvallátur, where there’s another gorgeous golden-sand beach and excellent opportunities for wild camping.
Soon the Bjargtangar lighthouse, Europe’s westernmost point (if you don’t count the Azores), comes into view and nearby the renowned Látrabjarg bird cliffs. Extending for 12km along the coast and ranging from 40m to 400m, the dramatic cliffs are mobbed by nesting sea birds in summer and it’s a fascinating place even for the most reluctant of twitchers. Unbelievable numbers of puffins, razorbills, guillemots, cormorants, fulmars, gulls and kittiwakes nest here from June to August. The puffins in particular are incredibly tame, and you can often get within a few feet of the birds. On calm days, seals are often seen basking on the skerries around the lighthouse.
East of the cliffs (about a 20km walk along the coast path from the lighthouse), the stunning Rauðisandur beach stretches out in shades of deep pink and red sands. Pounded by the surf and backed by a huge lagoon, it is an exceptionally beautiful and serene place. To get here by road you’ll have to backtrack on Rte 612 towards the head of the fjord. Take a right turn onto Rte 614 soon after the airfield at Sauðlauksdalur and follow the bumpy track for about 10km.
Sleeping & Eating
Breiðavík ( 456 1575; www.breidavik.is; sites per tent from Ikr1000, sb/s/d without bathroom Ikr3500/7500/10,000, s/d with bathroom Ikr10,000/15,500; mid-May–mid-Sep) Set on a working farm by the incredible cream-coloured beach at Breiðavík, this guest house offers homey rooms with patchwork quilts and decent furniture. Evening meals are also served (Ikr2500 to Ikr3000).
Hótel Látrabjarg ( 456 1500; www.latrabjarg.com; s/d without bathroom €90/105, with bathroom €115/130; mid-May–mid-Sep) This former boarding school has been converted into a comfortable hotel with plain but tasteful rooms. There’s a restaurant (three-course dinner Ikr3500). The hotel can also organise horse riding (Ikr2000 per hour) at the nearby farm Hestaleigan Vesturfari. To get to the hotel, turn right onto Rte 615 just after the museum at Hnjótur and continue for about 3km.
Getting There & Away
South of Patreksfjörður, Rte 62 cuts across the ridge at Kleifaheiði to the south coast, while Rte 612 runs west to the end of the Látrabjarg Peninsula.
On Monday, Wednesday and Saturday from June to August, buses from Ísafjörður route through Látrabjarg on their way to Brjánslækur, where you can pick up the Baldur ferry to Stykkishólmur