Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [144]
Bíldudalur was founded in the 16th century and today is a major supplier of prawns (shrimp). For tourists, attractions are limited to the small Tónlistarsafn ( 456 2186; Tjarnarbraut 5; admission Ikr400; 2-6pm Mon-Fri mid-Jun–Sep), a museum dedicated to Icelandic music from the ’40s to the ’60s, and the Skrímslasetur Sea Monster Museum (admission Ikr700; 11am-6pm) across from the church.
If you’d like to stay in Bíldudalur, there’s a free campsite beside the golf course on the outskirts of town. For more comfort, try Bíldudalur HI Hostel (Gistiheimilið Kaupfélagið; 456 2100, 860 2100; www.hostel.is; Hafnarbraut 2; sb/s/d member Ikr2100/3700/5800, nonmember Ikr2600/4200/6800), in the heart of the harbour-front. The rooms are basic but squeaky clean.
Meals are limited to the petrol station or Vegamót ( 456 2232; mains Ikr800-2000; ), which has a quaint pastoral vibe and stacks of journals for reading.
Eagle Air ( 562 4200; www.ernir.is; Reykjavík Domestic Airport, IS-101 Reykjavík) provides flights every day except Saturday to/from Reykjavík (45 minutes). The online fare for a one-way ticket is €115. Buses run on request to/from Patreksfjörður via Tálknafjörður to connect with flights. Call 893 2636 for details.
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CENTRAL PENINSULAS
DYNJANDI
Tumbling in a broad sweep over a 100m-rocky scarp at the head of Dynjandivogur bay, Dynjandi (Fjallfoss) is the most dramatic waterfall in the Westfjords, and the perfect doormat to its central peninsulas. Coming from the car park you’ll pass a series of smaller falls at the base of the main chute, but it’s well worth following the path up to the base of the massive cascade that plunges over the mountain side. The thundering water and views out over the broad fjord below are spectacular.
The surrounding area is protected as a nature reserve, but there’s a free (if noisy) campsite right by the falls. Dynjandi is well signposted off Rte 60. Buses between Brjánslækur and Ísafjörður take a 10-minute break here to appreciate the falls.
Beyond Dynjandi, Rte 60 cuts across the desolate moonscape of the Gláma moors, which are covered in coarse tundra vegetation and mirror-like pools of standing water. It’s possible to hike across this bleak moorland up to the ridge at Sjónfrið (920m) in a long, damp day.
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ÞINGEYRI PENINSULA
The Þingeyri Peninsula’s dramatic northern peaks have been dubbed the ‘Northwestern Alps’, and the region offers some excellent remote hiking. The mountains are partly volcanic in origin, and the peaks are made up of rock and scree – a marked contrast to the green valleys elsewhere in the Westfjords. For detailed information on hiking in the area, visit www.thingeyri.is.
A dirt road runs northwest along the eastern edge of the peninsula to the scenic valley at Haukadalur, an important Viking site. If the road isn’t blocked by landslides, you can continue right around the peninsula with a 4WD, passing cliffs where birds perch and the remote lighthouse at Svalvogar. Do not attempt this track with a 2WD – you will not make it. West Tours, in Ísafjörður, runs popular horse-riding tours in beautiful Meðadalur nearby.
If you’re visiting on the first weekend in July it’s worth checking out the local Dýrafjarðardagar Viking festival (www.westvikings.info), held at a reconstructed stone circle in Haukadalur. The festival celebrates the area’s Viking heritage and the saga of local man Gísli Súrsson.
Inland, the Westfjords’ highest peak Kaldbakur (998m) is a good hiking spot. The steep trail to the summit begins from the road about 2km west of Þingeyri town.
Over on the southern side of the Þingeyri peninsula, Hrafnseyri was the birthplace of Jón Sigurðsson, the architect of Iceland’s independence, which took place on 17 June 1811. The small and rather ugly Hrafnseyri museum ( 456 8260; www.hrafnseyri.is; adult/under 14yr Ikr500/free; 10am-8pm mid-Jun–Aug) outlines aspects of his life. There’s also a wooden church