Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [145]
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ÞINGEYRI
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This tiny village, on the north side of the peninsula, was the first trading station in the Westfjords, but these days the world seems to have passed Þingeyri by. Although there’s little to see here, the surrounding hills offer excellent walking, including the short hike up to Sandfell, the 367m ridge behind the village, which begins just south of the village on Rte 60.
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DOUBLE DETOUR: KETILDALIR & SELÁRDALUR
Hidden beyond Bíldudalur along Rte 619 is beautiful Ketildalir (Kettle Valley) and a strange museum at the tip of the fjord. Local artist Samúel Jónsson lived out his remaining years at the remote farm in Selárdalur. He filled his days by creating a series of ‘naive’, cartoon-like sculptures. Visitors can stop by and check out what remains. Currently there are four parts to the exhibition: a flamboyant house that looks somewhat like a birthday cake, a circle of lions (created from a postcard Samúel saw of the Alhambra), a church, and Samúel’s home. (At the time of research the home was closed for renovations.) Of particular note, however, is the sculpture of a man and seal. If you look at them from the right (or wrong) angles they’re placed in a rather unflattering pose…
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In summer there’s a tourist office ( 456 8304; www.thingeyri.is; Hafnarstræti; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, noon-4pm Sat & Sun Jun-Aug; ) and cafe on the main road. The village also has an ubermodern swimming pool ( 456 8375; adult/under 16yr Ikr400/free; 8.15am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun Jun-Aug, 6-8am & 4-6pm Mon-Fri, noon-3pm Sat & Sun Sep-May).
If you’d like to stay, you’ll find the campsite ( 456 8285; sites per tent/caravan Ikr1000/2000) behind the swimming pool. There are a few indoor options to spend the night in, but the friendly guest house Við Fjörðinn ( 456 8172; www.vidfjordinn.is; Aðalstræti 26; sb/d/apt Ikr2500/8000/15,000) is a great choice, with bright, cheerful rooms with simple decor and plain white linens. The sparkling bathrooms are shared, and there’s a good guest kitchen and a TV lounge. The village has a small supermarket, and there’s a snack bar at the modern N1 station.
Local buses ( 456 4258) run twice every weekday between Þingeyri and Ísafjörður (30 minutes). From June to August a daily bus runs to Brjánslækur, where you’ll be able to catch the Baldur ferry to Stykkishólmur (Click here).
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DÝRAFJÖRÐUR & ÖNUNDARFJÖRÐUR
Heading north from Þingeyri on the northern shore of Dýrafjörður are a series of gorgeous broad valleys. At the head of the valleys is a lovely weatherboard church and one of Iceland’s oldest botanic gardens, Skrúður (admission free; 24hr), which was established as a teaching garden in 1905.
Beyond Skrúður, about 7km from Rte 60, is Hotel Núpur ( 456 8235; www.hotelnupur.is; sites Ikr1200, plus electricity Ikr200, sb/s/d without bathroom Ikr2500/5900/8400), a rather uninspiring place built in a converted schoolhouse. Another kilometre past the hotel, the friendly farmhouse Alviðra ( 456 8229; alvidra@snerpa.is; sb/s/d without bathroom Ikr2500/5500/9000, apt from Ikr10,000; Jun-Aug) has simple accommodation spread across three small buildings. Check out the quirky collection of tiny liquor bottles when checking in at the main house.
After Alviðra the road passes an abandoned farmhouse before swerving inland to head over the top of the rugged peninsula. It takes about 20 minutes to reach Ingjaldsandur at the mouth of Önundarfjörður. Set in a picturesque valley, this isolated beach is a fantastic spot to watch the midnight sun as it flirts with the sea before rising back up into the sky. Sæból, the lonely farm nearby, sells handicrafts in summer.
Back on Rte 60, near upper Önundarfjörður, you’ll pass a marked turn-off for Kirkjuból ( 456 7679; www.kirkjubol.is; s/d from Ikr5200/8500; Jun-Aug). The white-and-green exterior could use a little paint job, but the inside is squeaky clean, sporting several well-chosen antiques mixed in with a few mod cons.
A second turn-off further north