Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [146]
Return to beginning of chapter
FLATEYRI
pop 300
Once a giant support base for Norwegian whalers, Flateyri is now a sleepy little place set on a striking gravel spit sticking out into broad Önundarfjörður. Blossi ( 456 7671; www.blossi.net; Drafnargata 6) runs sea angling trips, while two-hour to one-week sea-kayaking trips can be arranged through Grænhöfði ( 456 7762; jens@snerpa.is), which also offers apartment-style accommodation near the indoor-outdoor swimming pool ( 456 7738; adult/under 14yr Ikr300/180; 10am-9pm Mon-Fri, noon-4pm Sat & Sun Jun-Aug).
It’s best to swing by the petrol station if you’re looking for accommodation. There’s a campsite ( 456 7738; sites per tent Ikr1000) out back and a corkboard inside lists a variety of cottages for rent around town.
Your top option for food is saloon-style Vagninn ( 456 7151; Hafnarstræti 19; mains Ikr900-2000; dinner), serving the usual selection of snacks and meat dishes. Alternatively, there’s a grill bar ( 456 7878) at the N1 station with a few tables.
On weekdays there are three daily buses between Ísafjörður and Flateyri (30 minutes). To be picked up in Flateyri, call ahead ( 456 4258) – otherwise the bus might not drive into the village.
Return to beginning of chapter
SUÐUREYRI
pop 350
Perched on the tip of 13km-long Súgandafjörður, the fishing community of Suðureyri was isolated for years by the forbidding mountains. Now connected with Ísafjörður by a 5km tunnel, the village has a new lease of life and warmly welcomes tourists into the community.
In many ways the village is staunchly traditional – all fishing is done by rod and hook, and the grand tourism plans being developed are all about preserving nature and sharing rather than changing this traditional way of life. It’s the best place in Iceland to catch halibut, making the town a natural haven for angling.
Suðureyri gets all its energy and hot-water supplies from sustainable sources. In addition, the villagers’ prime fishing grounds lie very close to shore, so little fuel is used to power boats, and traditional fishing methods mean that the natural balance of the fish stocks is not endangered. If there ever was a truly green destination, Suðureyri would be it.
There’s no formal information centre; however, there are informative billboard-like posters at the beginning of town that offer insights into the town’s history and recent attempts at creating an infrastructure for sustainable tourism.
Sights & Activities
The Fisherman ( 450 9000; www.fisherman.is) project allows visitors to join in the regular life of the village in order to understand the lifestyle of fishing families in rural Iceland. You can visit the local fish factory (Ikr1000), join a sea angling tour (two hours; Ikr20,000) or request to go out on a working fishing boat (Ikr15,000 for an afternoon). The project offers a unique insight into life in fishing communities and is the only one of its kind in the country. You can book activities online or at the Fisherman Hotel VEG (right). You can also hire fishing rods and buy bait at the petrol station to do your own cod fishing in the nearby lagoon. The trick to a successful catch is to first bounce a stone in the lagoon – then, when you feed them, some of the cod will actually jump out of the water to grab the food!
Those without the time (or money) for a seafaring adventure can swing by the harbour between 3pm and 5pm to watch the local fishermen bring in the daily catch.
If it all sounds too exciting you could just relax in the village’s geothermal swimming pool ( 456 6121;