Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [148]
Information
The friendly tourist information centre ( 456 8060; www.isafjordur.is; Aðalstræti 7; 8.15am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat & Sun Jun-Aug, reduced hr Sep-May) is down by the harbour in the Edinborgarhús, built in 1781.
You’ll find all the major banks along Hafnarstræti and the post office ( 9am-4pm) in the Neisti Centre at Hafnarstræti 9. Internet access is available at the town library ( 456 3296; Eyrartúni; 1-7pm Mon-Fri, 1-4pm Sat). The tourist office also has a single terminal that travellers can use for a free 10-minute session.
The bookshop Eymundsson ( 456 3123; Hafnarstræti 2; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat) is well stocked and has maps, postcards, and coffee-table books in English. It also opens on Sundays when the cruise ships are in town.
Sights & Activities
Housed in a cluster of ancient wooden buildings by the harbour, the Westfjords Folk Museum ( 456 3293; Neðstíkaupstaður; adult/under 16yr/senior Ikr500/free/300; 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 1-5pm Sat & Sun Jun, 10am-5pm daily Jul & Aug) is an atmospheric place full of relics. The dimly lit main building, the Turnhús, dates from 1784 and was originally used as a warehouse. Inside it’s like stepping back in time, with every available surface covered by fishing and nautical exhibits, tools and equipment from the whaling days, and fascinating old photos depicting life in the town over the centuries. To the right of this building is the wooden Tjöruhús (1781), which now operates as a very pleasant cafe and seafood restaurant. Two other buildings on the site, the Faktorhús, built in 1765 to house the manager of the village shop, and the Krambúd (1757), originally a storehouse, are now private residences.
Apart from the museum, Ísafjörður’s formal attractions are pretty thin on the ground. There’s a second Factor’s House, or Faktorhúsið, in the centre of town. It’s true heritage treasure and is one of the oldest catalogue buildings (an edifice made using IKEA-like instructions) in Iceland. Of minor interest is the whalebone arch made from a whale’s jawbone in the park in the centre of town. Nearby are Ísafjörður’s interesting seamen’s monument and the modernist town church, which looks a lot like an old-fashioned press camera with a flash on top.
There are loads of walking trails around Ísafjörður, all of which are covered in the ultra-handy map series Vestfirðir & Dalir, available from the tourist office for a nominal fee. One of the more unusual and shorter walks is up to the truncated valley of Naustahvilft – about 1km above the airport – which offers fantastic views over the fjord. Several other trails start near the road bridge at the head of Skutulsfjörður, where the last wizards in Iceland were burned at the stake in 1656.
Although plain by Icelandic standards, the town swimming pool ( 456 3200; Austurvegur 9; adult/under 16yr Ikr300/180; 7am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun mid-Jun–Aug) makes a good retreat on a wet day.
In winter, the mountains around Ísafjörður are a popular destination for Icelandic skiers (see www.isafjordur.is/ski). The season runs from January to Easter, and there are daily flights from Reykjavík timed to fit in with the limited daylight hours. Snow permitting, there is a lively ski festival (www.skidavikan.is) here during the week after Easter. The week ends with a music festival attracting top bands. In May, cross-country skiers from around Iceland head to Ísafjörður for the 50km Fossavatn Ski Marathon (www.fossavatn.com), which has been running since 1935.
Tours
Housed in the same building as the tourist information centre, the popular and professional West Tours (Vesturferðir; 456 5111; www.vesturferdir.is) organises a mind-boggling array of trips in the area. There are trips to Vigur (from Ikr6100) and kayaking excursions (from Ikr11,385) all year. You can visit the abandoned village at Hesteyri (Ikr6200) on a day trip, or you can get a four-night package (Ikr32,000) to explore Hornstrandir. Biking, birdwatching and cultural excursions are but a few of the other activities on offer. Visit the office when you’re