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Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [149]

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in town to learn more – we highly recommend this outfitter.

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VOLUNTEERING AT THE ARCTIC FOX RESEARCH STATION

Trying to find an excuse to extend your Icelandic vacation? Look no further than the Arctic Fox Research Station, situated on the northern cliffs of the jaw-dropping Hornstrandir Peninsula – a photographer’s Eden and naturalist’s dream.

Although it’s a private facility, the research station at Hornbjarg is quite informal – just a cluster of tents and a charming outhouse a few kilometres away. Each day the team of researchers/volunteers sets off for an eight-hour viewing session during which they monitor fox behaviours, interactions and changes in location. There’s a lot of sitting and looking involved, but we can’t think of a more stunning location to take in the views and the nature. In fact, we took a bit of time off from our research to hunker down on the mossy cliffs and help out. We lucked out with T-shirt weather – the temperatures are usually a bit more shivery…

There are no requirements for becoming a volunteer – just a love of the great outdoors! Preference is, however, given to those studying biology, conservation or tourism. Volunteers are asked to give at least one week of their time and should keep their departure date somewhat flexible (ferry service can be delayed by a day or two when the seas around Hornstrandir are particularly rough). You’ll also need to have the usual trappings of an outdoor adventure: a tent, hiking boots, thermal sleeping bag and clothing appropriate for negative temperatures. The research centre will handle everything else (food, transport, additional equipment etc).

If the windswept wilderness isn’t your cup of tea, you can also volunteer at the headquarters in cosy Suðavík, near Isáfjörður. The Arctic Fox Center, as it’s known, is affiliated with the University of Iceland in Reykjavík and features an exhibition space telling the story of the Arctic fox’s lifestyle, biology, history and tumultuous relationship with fur-hunting humans. Volunteers working here may even have the opportunity to help train rescue dogs. Temporary room and board is provided.

Click here for more information, or check out www.arcticfoxcenter.com.

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Borea Adventures ( 899 3817, 869 7557; www.boreaadventures.com; Hlíðarvegur 38) is a smaller local operation with a professional yet wonderfully laid-back staff. High-quality tours usually involve multiday trips aboard Aurora, a yacht built for the Clipper Round the World Race. The boat is beautifully outfitted and meals aboard will be some of the best you’ll have during your visit to Iceland. A yearly voyage schedule is posted on the website and includes everything from out-of-this-world sea kayaking around Hornstrandir (six days, €1520) to exhilarating journeys to Greenland, Svalbard and Jan Mayen (around six to 10 days, €1750 to €2450). In winter Borea leads invigorating six-day skiing, glacier hiking, and northern lights trips around Jökulfirðir and the upper Hornstrandir (€1250). Try to book as early as possible – the fun-loving guides and kick-ass itineraries mean that these trips fill up very quickly.

Sleeping

Campers can pitch a tent at Hotel Edda’s campsite (sites per person Ikr1000; Jun-Aug) or at the campsite ( 444 4960; Skutulsfjarðarbraut; sites per person Ikr700; mid-Jun–mid-Aug) further out of town near the scenic waterfall in Tungudalur. The last stop on the town bus will take you to within 1km of the site.

Gamla Gistihúsið (Old Guest House; 456 4146; www.gistihus.is; Mánagata 5; sb/d incl breakfast Ikr2600/7600; ) Bright, cheerful and immaculately kept, this excellent guest house has simple but comfortable rooms with plenty of homey touches. The bathrooms are shared, but each double room has telephone, washbasin and bathrobes. An annexe just down the road has a guest kitchen and more modern, functional rooms.

Litla Guesthouse ( 474 1455; reginasc@simnet.is; Sundstræti 43; s/d Ikr700/10,000) Wooden floors, crisp white linen, fluffy towels and TVs are available in the high-quality rooms of Litla, another

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