Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [151]
A special bus service runs to the airport about 45 minutes before departures. It starts in Bolungarvík and stops near the Hótel Ísafjörður.
BUS & BOAT
All buses circling through the Westfjords stop in Ísafjörður; Click here for details. Buses stop at the N1 petrol station on Hafnarstræti. Local council buses ( 456 4258) run twice daily Monday to Friday from Ísafjörður to Flateyri and Þingeyri and three times daily to Suðureyri and Bolungarvík.
In summer, ferries to Hornstrandir depart from the Sundahöfn docks on the eastern side of the isthmus – Click here for details.
Getting Around
City buses operate from 7.30am to 6.30pm on weekdays (until 10.30pm in winter) and connect the town centre with Hnífsdalur and Tungudalur. Contact West Tours for bike rentals. For a taxi, call 456 3518.
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BOLUNGARVÍK
pop 920
Bolungarvík is about as pretty as it sounds. Despite its stunningly dramatic position at the fjordhead, the town itself is sleepy and rundown. However, two local museums make it somewhat tempting, and it’s a pleasant destination for hikers as well.
An informal tourist information centre ( 861 8415; Vistastíg 1; noon-6pm Mon-Fri, 2-5pm Sat mid-Jun–Aug) is set up in a dusty handicraft shop next to the Natural History Museum. Stop here for the latest details on local hikes and accommodation options.
Housed in a series of old turf-and-stone fishing shacks on the way into town, the interesting open-air Ósvör Maritime Museum ( 892 1616; adult/under 16yr Ikr600/400; 10am-5pm May-Aug) is well worth a visit. A guide in a typical sheepskin fisherman’s outfit shows you round, explaining the history of the area and the traditional methods for salting fish. The cramped fishermen’s hut is full of interesting relics. A traditional rowing boat and tug capstan are also on display. On a ridge across the road, a view disc describes the surrounding landscape.
In the town’s main shopping arcade, the Natural History Museum ( 456 7507; www.natturugripasaen.is; Vitastíg 3; adult/under 16yr Ikr600/free; 9am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri, 1-5pm Sat & Sun Jun-Sep) has a comprehensive collection of minerals and stuffed animals – including a polar bear shot by local fishermen while swimming off the Hornstrandir coast.
There are interesting hikes to the remote coastal valley at Skálavík, 12km from Bolungarvík along a steep mountain road. Afterwards, soak your muscles at the swimming pool ( 456 7381; admission Ikr390; 8am-8pm Mon & Fri, 1-8pm Tue-Thu, 10am-6pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun).
Facilities for tourists are limited – you’re better off basing yourself in Ísafjörður. There’s a basic campsite ( 456 7381; sites per person Ikr800, plus electricity Ikr200) with washing machines by the swimming pool, and fast food at the Shell station on the main street. Self-caterers will find a Samkaup supermarket nearby as well.
A surfaced road runs around the headlands from Ísafjörður to Bolungarvík, lined with tunnels and steel nets to catch falling debris from the steep slopes above.
From June to August there are three buses from Ísafjörður to Bolungarvík from Monday to Friday, and two in the opposite direction. A ferry service to Hornstrandir also leaves from town – Click here for details.
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ÍSAFJARÐARDJÚP
The largest of the fjords in the region, 75km-long Ísafjarðardjúp takes a massive swath out of the Westfjords’ landmass. Circuitous Rte 61 winds in and out of a series of smaller fjords on the southern side, making the drive from Ísafjörður to Hólmavík like sliding along each tooth of a fine comb.
Súðavík
pop 200
Just east of Ísafjörður, the small fishing community of Súðavík commands an imposing view across the fjord to Hornstrandir. Although the township is nothing more than a string of bright, box-shaped houses, it is definitely worth stopping by to visit the brand new Arctic Fox Center ( 862 8219; www.arcticfoxcenter.com; admission Ikr800; 9am-6pm). The study of the adorable arctic fox has been underway on nearby Hornstrandir for several