Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [152]
The centre’s friendly managers are always looking for enthusiastic volunteers to work in Súðavík and/or go on surveying missions in Hornstrandir – see the boxed text, for details.
Súðavík takes a stab at the all-American diner with Amma Habbý ( 587 7745; Rte 61; mains Ikr690-1590; 11am-11pm). They’ve got the greasy grub down pat – burgers, ‘birthday cake’ and milkshakes – and there are Old Hollywood portraits decorating the walls. The restaurant also doubles as a candy shop if you’re looking for a sugar boost before tackling another endless stretch of bumpy highway.
Let the rugrats run wild at Raggagarður (http://raggagardur.is) across the street. Constructed by volunteers, this recreation park is named after Raggi, a young local who was tragically killed in a car crash.
Contact Isangling ( 456 1540; www.isangling.is), one of the Westfjords’ largest sea-angling outfits, for comfortable accommodation up the hill at No 15 – there’s an immaculately kept campsite next door.
Daily from Monday to Saturday there’s a private bus from Ísafjörður to Súðavík (20 minutes). The buses between Ísafjörður and Hólmavík also pass through town on Sunday, Tuesday and Friday.
Vigur
With one adorable farm and zillions of puffins, charming Vigur is a popular destination for day-trippers from Ísafjörður. The tiny island sits at the mouth of Hestfjörður, offering sweeping fjord views in every direction. There’s not much to do on the island besides taking a stroll (grab a stick from the windmill and hold it over your head – the Arctic terns are fierce here!), visiting the eider ducks and savouring cakes at the cafe. Try ‘marital bliss’, a marzipan confection – it was either the most delicious thing we’ve ever eaten, or we were just insanely hungry, having worked up a monstrous appetite while kayaking all the way to the island. While you’re sending some snail mail in the wee post office, don’t forget to have a look at the interesting egg collection inside.
West Tours ( 456 5111; www.vesturferdir.is) in Ísafjörður runs excursions to Vigur (from Ikr6100) all year.
Mjóifjörður, Vatnsfjörður & Reykjarfjörður
Continuing on after Suðavík, Rte 61 wiggles along with the undulating, fjord-ridden coast. At the head of Mjóifjörður, 11km from the main road, the farm Heydalur ( 456 4824; www.heydalur.is; sites per adult Ikr700, sb/d from Ikr2500/10,800 Jun-Aug, Ikr7900/10,400 Sep-May) is a fantastic place to break up the journey. It’s a peaceful spot, yet activities are aplenty – hiking, swimming, spaing, horse riding (Ikr3500 per hour) and guided Kayaking (Ikr5000 for 2½ hours), just to name a few. In winter you can go snowmobiling or link up with the excellent northern lights viewing trips (Ikr81,000, including transport to/from Keflavík).
Even if you don’t have plans to stop for the night, Heydalur’s restaurant (mains Ikr1500-3300; breakfast, lunch & dinner) is a great place to unwind and stretch your legs. Say hello to the parrot (he’ll say hello back!) while savouring excellent soups, homemade breads, organic vegies from the local garden, popular lamb fillets, and smoked puffin if you’re inclined. The restaurant itself sits inside a restored barn. Don’t forget to look up – the beautiful chandelier overhead is made from glass buoy balls once used to steady fishing traps.
Further on, at the end of tiny Reykjar-fjörður, is the friendly but well-weathered Hótel Reykjanes ( 456 4844; www.rnes.is; sites Ikr1500, sb/s/d Ikr3000/4500/8500; ), housed in the huge, white former district school. The rooms are compact and functional, but there’s a randomly gigantic (50m) outdoor