Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [158]
Next to the Kerling, Malarhorn ( 451 3238; www.malarhorn.is; Grundargata 17; s/d/cottage Ikr8900/12,000/28,000) is a peaceful row of crisp pine cabins that feel thoroughly modern yet remarkably cosy. There’s no TV, no radio and definitely no internet here – it’s the perfect place to escape.
Malarhorn also runs a variety of sailing, sea-angling and fishing trips (around Ikr3000). Visits to Grímsey (adult/child Ikr4000/2000) are on offer at 2pm on Thursday and Sunday. It may also be possible to charter a boat up to the Hornstrandir reserve – call for details about this and other trips.
Malarkaffi (mains from Ikr1300; 8am-9pm), across the gravel lot from Malarhorn, serves an array of traditionally prepared fish, whale and lamb on its second-storey verandah overlooking the fjord.
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THE GRÍMSEY TROLLS
According to legend the island of Grímsey, off the coast of Drangsnes, was created by evil trolls, now petrified into the stone stacks at Drangsnes. Intent on severing the Westfjords from the mainland, the trolls decided to dig a trench right across the peninsula. Unfortunately, they were so wrapped up in the job that they failed to notice the rising sun. As the first rays broke over the horizon, the two trolls at the trench’s western end were transformed into standing stones at Kollafjörður. The female troll on the east side nearly escaped, but as she was turning to flee she realised that she had marooned her bull on the newly created island of Grímsey. Suddenly the sunbeams struck – she was promptly turned to stone forever, gazing back at her lost bull.
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The Friday bus from Staðarskáli to Hólmavík continues to Drangsnes (30 minutes), returning the same day. No buses run north of Drangsnes, so you’ll need a vehicle to reach Laugarhóll or anywhere further north.
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BJARNARFJÖRÐUR
North of Drangsnes, a rough road winds around a series of gorgeous crumbling escarpments and dramatic fjords. There’s no public transport and there are few services on this route, but if you’ve got your own vehicle, the utter tranquillity, incredible views and sheer sense of isolation are truly remarkable.
The first indent along the coast is Bjarnarfjörður, where you’ll find the Hótel Laugarhóll ( 451 3380; d without/with bathroom Ikr10,000/12,500; ), a large, modern building with spacious rooms and an in-house restaurant. At the time of writing, new managers were set to take over. The lovely geothermal pool (Ikr300) next door has some of the warmest water in Iceland.
Near the hotel is an ancient artificial pool that was blessed by a bishop in the 16th century and is now a national monument. The consecrated pool feeds the lovely geothermal pool nearby, so if you stop by for a dip you’re essentially bathing in holy water (or so the locals say). Just a few steps away is the turf-roofed Sorcerer’s Cottage (adult/child Ikr600/free), which is part of the witchcraft museum in Hólmavík (Click here). A collection of grimoire translations can be purchased in the gift shop – the author lives in the yellow house on the far side of the road.
North of Bjarnarfjörður the scenery becomes more rugged and there are fine views across to the Skagi Peninsula in north Iceland. This road often closes with the first snows in autumn and may not reopen until spring. If you’re travelling late in the season, ask locally for up-to-date information on conditions.
At Kaldbaksvík the steep sides of a broad fjord sweep down to a small fishing lake that serenely reflects the surrounding mountains. Just beyond the lake, a 4km trail runs up to the summit of craggy Lambatindur (854m). You’ll notice copious amounts of driftwood piled up along the shore on this coast – most of it has arrived from Siberia across the Arctic Ocean.
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