Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [159]
REYKJARFJÖRÐUR
Tucked in beneath a looming rock wall at Reykjarfjörður is the strangely enchanting factory at Djúpavík. Once a thriving centre for herring processing, the area was all but abandoned when the plant closed in 1950. The looming bulk of the deserted factory dominates the village, but for those travellers who make it here it’s one of the most memorable locations of their trip.
Hótel Djúpavík ( 451 4037; www.djupavik.com; sb/s/d from Ikr2500/6700/8100; ) is a charming bolt hole swathed in antiques and set in the former factory accommodation block. It’s not the rooms that earn Djúpavík the ‘our pick’ symbol – it’s the feeling of comfort and calm that washes over every visitor. When asked why visitors come back year after year, staff simply explain that Djúpavík is unforgettable and holds a special power over all who visit. There’s an in-house restaurant serving fish fresh from the fjord, and at 2pm you can take a tour (Ikr500) of the abandoned factory.
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NORÐURFJÖRÐUR
North of Djúpavík, there are two interesting churches at Árnes – one is a traditional wooden structure and the other is strangely and dramatically futuristic. Also worth a look is the small museum, Kört ( 451 4025; www.trekyllisvik.is; Árnes 2; admission Ikr500; 10am-6pm Jun-Aug), which sells handicrafts, offers info about the area and has displays on fishing, farming and collected knick-knacks. A second satellite of the witch museum in Hólmavík (Click here) was being constructed in Árnes at the time of writing. When completed, it will feature a large monument that doubles as a small cinema showing a 50-minute documentary about witchcraft. Nearby, Kistan (meaning ‘the coffin’) was the main site in the region for witch executions. It’s marked on the main road, but easier to find if you ask for directions.
Clinging onto life at the end of the long bumpy road up the Strandir coast is the little fishing village of Norðurfjörður. Norðurfjörður has a cafe, a petrol station and a few guest houses, and it’s the last place to stock up and indulge in some home comforts before heading off to Hornstrandir. About 2km beyond Norðurfjörður, at Krossnes, there’s an open-air geothermal swimming pool (adult/under 14yr Ikr250/100) sitting at the edge of the universe on a wild black-pebble beach. It’s an incredible place to watch the midnight sun flirt with the lapping waves.
Sleeping & Eating
Finnbogastaðaskóli ( 451 4013; sites per tent Ikr1500; sb/s/d Ikr1800/2700/4600; Jun-Aug) Recognisable by the rusted basketball net outside, this budget-friendly option is set in a converted primary school – there are arts and crafts adorning the walls, but everything’s kept very clean. Walk-ins will find the manager at home in the field just beyond.
Gistiheimili Bergistanga ( 451 4003; gunnsteinn@simnet.is; sb Ikr2500) On the hill overlooking the harbour, this friendly guest house has good sleeping-bag accommodation in comfortable rooms, and a guest kitchen.
Café Norðurfjörður ( 451 4034; mains from Ikr890; 11.30am-8.30pm) Located near the petrol station, this simple joint with excellent fjord views offers everything from waffles to lamb.
Getting There & Away
No buses run to Norðurfjörður, but Eagle Air ( 562 4200; www.ernir.is; Reykjavík Domestic Airport, IS-101 Reykjavík) pilots charter flights twice a week (Monday and Thursday) between Reykjavík and the airstrip at Gjögur, 16km southeast of Norðurfjörður. The online fare for a one-way ticket is €115 and the trip takes 50 minutes.
Freydís ( 852 9367; www.freydis.is) runs scheduled trips from Norðurfjörður to Hornvík and Reykjarfjörður (from Ikr6000) on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday between July and mid-August. Trips to other points in Hornstrandir can be arranged on request.
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Northwest Iceland
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EASTERN HÚNAFLÓI
HRÚTAFJÖRÐUR
HVAMMSTANGI
VATNSNES PENINSULA
VATNSDALUR
BLÖNDUÓS
SKAGASTRÖND
SKAGAFJÖRÐUR
VARMAHLÍÐ
VARMAHLÍÐ TO AKUREYRI (ÖXNADALUR)
GLAUMBÆR
SAUÐÁRKRÓKUR
WESTERN SKAGAFJÖRÐUR
H