Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [160]
EASTERN SKAGAFJÖRÐUR
SIGLUFJÖRÐUR
AKUREYRI
HISTORY
ORIENTATION
INFORMATION
SIGHTS
ACTIVITIES
TOURS
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
SLEEPING
EATING
DRINKING
ENTERTAINMENT
SHOPPING
GETTING THERE & AWAY
GETTING AROUND
AROUND AKUREYRI (EYJAFJÖRÐUR)
AKUREYRI TO MÝVATN (GOÐAFOSS)
WESTERN EYJAFJÓRÐUR
GRÍMSEY
EASTERN EYJAFJÖRÐUR
UPPER EYJAFJÖRÐUR
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Locals joke that the only tourists who stop in northwest Iceland are the ones who get pulled off the Ring Road for speeding. And is it true? Well, kinda. This is backdoor Iceland at its best – a region with three lonely peninsulas where each cairn has a story and each horse a name.
Much of northwest Iceland has an end-of-the-world feel to it. Little fishing villages cling tenaciously to life at the end of unsealed roads, their poignant history a constant reminder of Iceland’s fickle fortunes. Quiet, remote Siglufjörður was once a thriving herring-fishing centre, Hofsós records the departure of thousands of Icelandic emigrants, and the bishopric at Hólar was once a beacon of medieval thought and culture.
Little Akureyri, with its surprising moments of big-city living, offers the only respite from the endless country vistas. Beyond this urban blip, you’ll uncover barking seals on Vatnsnes, icy peaks in Tröllaskagi and windy pastures along Skagafjörður. Offshore in the fjords you’ll find lonely islands with roaring colonies of sea birds and an impressive bunch of hardy locals.
To appreciate this area you’ve got to get off Rte 1, wind your way through the bays, fjords and braided river deltas that stretch north, and discover the spectacular scenery and quirky little towns that give this region its character. Tourists on tight schedules will pass straight through – those with extra time will go home saying they got to experience the Iceland that isn’t always found in the tourist brochures.
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HIGHLIGHTS
Cross Iceland’s only true slice of the Arctic Circle – the tern-filled and troll-infested island of Grímsey
Grin quietly while relishing the undeniable splendour of Goðafoss
Discover northern Iceland’s version of city living during a spirited night out in Akureyri
Experience the ultimate white-water thrills, spills and chills on a rafting trip from Varmahlíð
Trot along serene Skagafjörður on horseback, taking in views of the Tröllskagi peaks and lonely offshore islets
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Getting There & Away
AIR
Air Iceland ( 570 3030; www.airiceland.is) has a minimum of five daily flights between Reykjavík and Akureyri (from Ikr5500 one way, 45 minutes).
BUS
From May to September two buses a day operate between Reykjavík and Akureyri (Ikr9900, 5¾ hours), via Staðarskáli (formerly Brú), Hvammstangi, Blönduós and VarmahlíÐ. They depart from Reykjavík and Akureyri at 8.30am and 5.30pm. There’s a reduced service the rest of the year but still at least two buses daily. From mid-June to the end of August, Trex and SBA operate at least one daily service between Reykjavík and Akureyri along the highland Kjölur route (from Ikr9900, nine to 10 hours), leaving at 8am in both directions.
Heading east, there are daily buses from Akureyri to Mývatn (Ikr2200, 1½ hours), Húsavík (Ikr2300, one hour) and Egilsstaðir (Ikr5400, four hours).
Getting Around
Away from the Ring Road, getting around this area can be frustrating without your own transport. From May to August there are daily buses between Varmahlíð and Sauðárkrókur, and from June to August there’s a service every day except Saturday between Sauðárkrókur and Siglufjörður. There’s also a weekday bus from Akureyri to Ólafsfjörður, via Dalvík.
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EASTERN HÚNAFLÓI
Although sparsely populated and scattered with only a handful of tiny settlements, Húnaflói is rich in wildlife. It’s also known as Bear Bay – named after the many Greenland bears that have come ashore there. The scenery of the area is far gentler than that of the Westfjords, and the low, treeless hills provide nesting sites for wild swans, ptarmigans, divers and golden plovers. Add some neatly