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marches down its spine. On the west side there’s a lonely cafe (open 3pm to 7pm from mid-June to August) and campsite at Illugastaðir ( 894 0695; sites per person Ikr750; mid-Jun–Aug), with wonderful views of dramatic peaks along the Strandir coast in the Westfjords. In the east you’ll happen upon one of Iceland’s largest accessible seal colonies at Hindisvík. A short walk from here, and accessible from a parking area near the road, is the bizarre 15m-high sea stack Hvítserkur. Legend has it that Hvítserkur was a troll caught by the sunrise while attempting to destroy the monastery at Þingeyrar.

About 10km further south is the charming Ósar Youth Hostel ( 862 2778; www.hostel.is; dm member/nonmember Ikr2100/2600; May-Sep), one of Iceland’s nicest hostels, thanks to friendly management, good views and the nearby wildlife. The hostel is on a working dairy farm, and the owner indulges his hobby of building more rooms each year. Bring your own food as there are no shops nearby.

There is no public transport around the peninsula, but Rte 711, a rough gravel road, weaves along the coast. If you call ahead, the hostel can pick you up from the Ring Road (about Ikr2500).

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VATNSDALUR

The cascade-filled stretch of highway from Hvammstangi to Blönduós is the aptly named Vatnsdalur – literally ‘water valley’ in Icelandic. Travellers, get those cameras ready!

Ecofriendly Gauksmýri ( 451 2927; www.gauksmyri.is; s/d without bathroom Ikr7400/10,700, with bathroom Ikr11,200/15,000; ), near the Ring Road just beyond the turn-off to Hvammstangi, is a great place to overnight, especially if you’re keen on horse riding. Other activities include birdwatching, dog sledding (in winter) and massage. There’s even a small raven museum.

Speed demons will be happy to know that Gauksmýri marks the halfway point between Reykjavík and Akureyri along the Ring Road. Ask here for directions to Kolugljúfur – an enchanting canyon that was once home to a beautiful trolless. You can still see her bed.

Serious horse riders should book ahead with Brekkulækur ( 451 2938; www.geysir.com/brekkulaekur), 9km south from the Hvammstangi turn-off, which offers adventurous and highly acclaimed multiday trips (€1000 to €2500 for eight to 15 days).

Around 19km before you reach Blönduós, take a quick 6km detour along Rte 721 to find a precious stone church, Þingeyrar, sitting quietly on Hóp lagoon. The current structure was erected in the 1860s, but 800 years earlier the site hosted a district þing (assembly), and a prolific literary Benedictine monastery. Those who head south along Rte 722 will soon reach Vatnsdalshólar. Follow the staircase over the fence (you’ll know what we mean when you arrive) to reach the bizarre Kattarauga (literally ‘cat’s eyes’) – small tree-topped islets that mysteriously float around the crystalline lake.

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BLÖNDUÓS

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A couple of museums and an unusual church – Blönduós is about as simple as that. There isn’t too much to woo you off the road, but it’s a good place to break up the journey and refuel.

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THE FUNKY CHURCH HUNT

If you’re driving straight from Reykjavík to Akureyri, you might be surprised to find yourself making a pit stop in Blönduós. Some tummies grumble at the sight of the big N1 station, other road-trippers get yanked off the highway for speeding (the cops are notorious here!) and a third subset of travellers slow down to utter a collective ‘what the…?’ when they pass the town’s oddball church in the centre of town. If eccentric architecture is your thing, then you’re in luck! Iceland’s got a clutch of wonky worship houses that makes Blönduós’ contribution seem remarkably staid. Here are three faves:

Hallgrímskirkja in Reykjavík

Stykkishólmskirkja on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula

The ‘New Church’ at Arnes on the remote Strandir coast

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Orientation & Information

The churning Blanda river sharply separates the town in half. The N1 station marks the northern entrance into town, while the Olis station sits at the southern approach.