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Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [163]

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Most food options can be scouted north of the Blanda and accommodation sits mostly south. The tourist information centre ( 820 1300; ferdamal@simnet.is; 8am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat Jun-Aug; ) is north of the river, just off the Ring Road – follow the signs for the campground.

The Blanda is an extremely dangerous river with fast currents and undertows. Keep all children and pets well away from the banks.

Sights & Activities

Set in an intriguing building (think ‘turf-roof chic’) on the north bank of the Blanda, the small Textiles Museum (Heimilisiðnaðarsafnið; 452 4067; www.simnet.is/textile; Árbraut 29; adult/under 16yr/senior Ikr600/free/450; 10am-5pm Jun-Aug) displays local handicrafts and early Icelandic costumes. The small on-site cafe is a great place to relax with a hot coffee and enjoy the river views out the large picture windows.

Housed in the oldest timber merchant’s house in Iceland, the Sea Ice Exhibition Centre (Hafíssetrið; 452 4848; www.blonduos.is/hafis; Blöndubyggð 2; adult/under 16yr Ikr500/free; 11am-5pm late May-Aug) looks at the formation and types of sea ice, weather patterns, early Icelandic settlers, and ice in nearby east Greenland. One display examines the possibility of an ice-free North Pole being used as a shipping lane, and another displays the polar bear that wreaked havoc in the region during the summer of 2008 (don’t worry –he’s been stuffed).

The islet of Hrútey, just upstream from the Blanda Bridge, is a nature reserve and the site of a reforestation project. Access is via a footbridge 200m north of the campsite.

Keep an eye out for the town’s new swimming pool – it was under construction when we passed through.

Sleeping & Eating

Occupying a lovely setting near the river, Blönduós’ visitor information centre runs the neighbouring campsite (sites per tent Ikr1200) and Glaðheimar cottages (www.gladheimar.is; cabins Ikr10,000-17,000). Campers will find good washing facilities, while travellers opting for the large cabins will be treated to hot tubs and saunas within.

Hótel Blönduós ( 452 4205; www.hotelblonduos.is; Aðalgata 6; s/d incl breakfast Ikr15,900/19,900; ) The town’s only hotel isn’t anything to write home about, but it’s popular with visiting anglers. The restaurant (mains from Ikr2700; open 6am to 10pm) could use a decorator’s touch (dark wood and disco balls?), but the fish and lamb dishes are quite good. Nearby, the owners also run Posthusið (Blöndubyggð 10; s/d incl breakfast Ikr7900/9900), a faded, pistachio-toned guest house set in the former post office.

Við Árbakkann ( 452 4678; Húnabraut 2; mains Ikr1050-3000; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat, 1-5pm Sun) This fine country-style cafe, set in a big blue house north of the river, serves a mixed bag of local faves and pub-grub staples.

Pottunrinn og Pannan ( 453 5060; Nordurlandsvegur 4; mains Ikr1200-3200; lunch & dinner) Set in a surprisingly modern dining room, ‘Pots and Pans’ has a great assortment of food and makes a pleasant step up from petrol-station eats. There’s soup and salad all day, fantastic burgers, and a few delicious Indian dishes (the chef is from the Subcontinent).

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ICELANDIC COWBOY

Hallbjörn Hjartarson, the ‘Icelandic Cowboy’, fell in love with country-and-western music while working on the American base at Keflavík in the 1960s. Even after moving back to the remote fishing community at Skagaströnd, he continued to indulge his passion for playing and recording country music. He released his first record in 1975 and organised Iceland’s first country-music festival in Skagaströnd in 1984. The two-day event is held during the third weekend in August, and recently attracted about 3000 people!

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A Samkaup-úrval (Húnabraut 4; 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat, 1-5pm Sun) fulfils self-caterers’ needs.

Getting There & Away

Buses travelling from Reykjavík (Ikr6200, four hours)and from Akureyi (Ikr3800, two hours) stop off in Blönduós.


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SKAGASTRÖND

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One of northern Iceland’s oldest trading centres, Skagaströnd was first established in the 16th

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