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century, but today its main claim to fame is as the country-music capital of Iceland. Yes, you read it right. The main reason to venture the 22km north of the Ring Road is to pop into Kántrýbær ( 453 2829; www.kantry.is; Holanesvegur; 11.30am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat Jun-Aug, lunch Sep-May), Iceland’s only country-music bar. With its Wild West log-cabin atmosphere, bright murals, a gold bust of the owner (above) and the constant twang of country music, this place is truly a unique Icelandic experience. The menu has the usual pub grub (mains Ikr790 to Ikr2790), but also features lamb and pan-fried trout caught in the local lakes. Upstairs is a small museum (adult/child Ikr400/free) of country-music memorabilia and a working radio station (95.7FM in town, 100.7FM in Blönduós and 100.2FM in Sauðarkrókur).

Apart from the bar there’s a bank, post office, Samkaup supermarket and small campsite on the way into town.

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SKAGAFJÖRÐUR

Renowned for its horse breeding and its wild landscapes, Skagafjörður is a little-visited region in Iceland’s quiet northwest. Hit by recession, rough weather and lonely winters, the area is littered with abandoned farms and chilling reminders of how difficult life in isolated rural Iceland can be. For visitors, however, the bleak landscape, historic remains, abundant bird life and adrenalin-infused activities make it a rewarding destination. For more information, www.visitskagafjordur.com.

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VARMAHLÍÐ

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This bustling Ring Road service centre is slightly more than a road junction and yet not quite a town. Named after nearby geothermal sites, it’s a busy place and a great base for rafting, hiking and horse riding.

VarmahlíÐ’s tourist information centre ( 455 6161; www.visitskagafjordur.is; 9am-7pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 9am-5pm 1 Jun–14 Jun & 16 Aug–31 Aug, closed weekends Sep-May; ) is in the little turf-roofed cottage near the N1 petrol station. It’s a helpful place with local hiking maps, an internet terminal, wi-fi and coffee (all free!). The crafts sold in the centre are handmade by the wives of the local farmers. History buffs should enquire about saga-themed tours (Ikr3000) that have recently started up in this fable-rich region.

Activities

WHITE-WATER RAFTING

Between May and September the area around Varmahlíð offers the best white-water rafting in northern Iceland. Hestasport Activity Tours ( 453 8383; www.rafting.is) specialises in rafting trips on three local rivers. Options include a four-hour trip on the Jökulsá Vestari (West River; Ikr6500), with grade II+ rapids; a family-friendly three- to four-hour paddle on the Blanda (Ikr6500, one child per family free) with grade I+ rapids; and an exciting six-hour adventure on the Jökulsá Austari (East River; Ikr9800), where you can tackle grade IV+ rapids. Tours usually depart at 9am. The ultimate rafting adventure is the three-day, two-night ‘River Rush’ (Ikr59,800). There are usually three departures per summer – trips start on a Monday (see website for details).

South along Rte 752 (11km from the Ring Road), the farm Bakkaflöt ( 453 8245; www.riverrafting.com) also offers rafting on the Jökulsá Vestari and the Jökulsá Austari (Ikr6400 to Ikr9400 per person), departing at 10am and 2pm every day. The centre also has an ubercomfy guest house (sleeping bag/single/double Ikr3300/6500/10,000) with hot pots and a swimming pool.

HORSE RIDING & HORSE SHOWS

Hestasport Activity Tours ( 453 8383; www.riding.is) is one of Iceland’s most respected riding outfits, offering one-hour horse rides for Ikr4000 and full-day rides for Ikr12,000. Longer trips (around €2000) are also available (book well in advance), including eight-day trips (five days in the saddle) along lesser-known routes through the untouched highlands. Winter riding trips (€1795) are available upon demand.

The farm Lýtingsstaðir ( 453 8064; www.lythorse.com), 19km south of Varmahlíð on Rte 752, offers a similar program of trips and hourly riding. They also feature a ‘stop and ride’ package that includes accommodation,