Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [165]
Regular horse shows are hosted by Flugmýri ( 453 8814; www.flugmyri.com; 1hr Ikr2200) and Varmilækur ( 898 7756; www.varmilaekur.is; 1hr Ikr2000). They showcase the five gaits of the Icelandic horse, and detail the breed’s history. Both ranches also offer riding tours and are located within 10km of VarmahlíÐ. Ask at the tourist office for an up-to-date schedule of events.
SUPER-JEEP TOURS
Conveniently located near the doorway to the Icelandic ‘Outback’, Varmahlíð is also a fine place to join a ‘super-Jeep’ tour of the rugged highlands. Day trips visit the bubbling pools of Laugafell, while overnight adventures loop through the highlands connecting Laugafell, Askja, Herðubreið and Mývatn. Try JSJ Tours ( 453 8219; www.simnet.is/jeppaferdir; day trip/overnight Ikr7500/20,000) or ask at the information centre.
Sleeping & Eating
There are plenty of places to crash in the area – ask at the information centre or use the handy Áning guide or Icelandic Farm Holidays booklet. Campers can pitch a tent at Lauftún (sites per person Ikr500, dm Ikr1500) along the Ring Road opposite the service station. There’s also a more secluded campsite (sites per person Ikr1000) up the hill near the swimming pool.
Hestaport Cottages ( 453 8383; www.rafting.is; 2-person cottages Jun-Sep Ikr16,800, Oct-May Ikr9500) Perched on the hill above VarmahlíÐ (follow the gravel road past Hótel VarmahlíÐ), this group of self-contained timber cottages has good views, comfy rooms and a very inviting stone hot pool.
Hótel Varmahlíð ( 453 8170; www.hotelvarmahlid.is; s/d mid-Jun–Aug Ikr15,900/19,900, May–mid-Jun & Sep Ikr11,500/14,500, Oct-May Ikr8100/10,500; ) This bland hotel dominates the area and has unmemorable but well-maintained rooms. Its restaurant (mains Ikr2500 to Ikr4100), however, is one of the best places in the region to try the local delicacy, foal, and the scrumptious lamb comes from the manager’s own flock.
Getting There & Away
All buses from Reykjavík (4½ hours) and Akureyri (one hour) stop at the terminal between the tourist office and the supermarket. From May to August there are daily buses to Sauðárkrókur (30 minutes) and from there to Siglufjörður (daily except Saturday, 1¼ hours). The Trex Kjölur route comes out of the highlands at VarmahlíÐ.
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VARMAHLÍÐ TO AKUREYRI (ÖXNADALUR)
If you haven’t the time to explore scenic Skagafjörður, you’ll pass instead through Öxnadalur, a narrow 30km-long valley on the Ring Road between Varmahlíð and Akureyri. Stunning peaks and thin pinnacles of rock flank the mountain pass – the imposing 1075m spire of Hraundrangi and the surrounding peaks of Háafjall are among the most dramatic in Iceland.
It’s worth stopping for dinner at Halastjarna ( 461 2200; www.halastjarna.is; Háls; 3-course dinner around Ikr3000; noon-10pm daily Jun-Aug, Sat & Sun Sep-Dec), near the summit of the pass. Hobbit-sized antiques abound and scrumptious locally sourced dishes (the menu changes daily) are served on mismatched dishware. Book ahead.
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GLAUMBÆR
Following Rte 75 north from Varmahlíð towards Skagafjörður’s marshy delta leads to the 18th-century turf farm museum ( 453 6173; adult/under 16yr Ikr600/free; 9am-6pm Jun–mid-Sep) at Glaumbær. It’s the best museum of its type in northern Iceland and well worth the easy 8km detour.
Stuffed full of period furniture, equipment and utensils, the 18th-and 19th- century buildings are now a beautifully restored collection of 12 turf houses that give a real insight into the cramped living conditions of that time.
Also on the site are two 19th-century timber houses, both examples of early wooden homes that replaced the turf dwellings. One house is now used as the gift shop while the other is home to Áskaffi ( 453 8855; 9am-6pm Jun-Aug), an impossibly quaint cafe with a roaring turf fire, old-world atmosphere and dollhouse dishware. Keep an eye out for the brochure explaining the history behind its tasty traditional Icelandic