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Snorri Þorfinnsson, the first European born in North America (in 1004; see the boxed text), is buried near the church at Glaumbær.

Buses between Varmahlíð and Sauðárkrókur pass Glaumbær daily in summer.

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SAUÐÁRKRÓKUR

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As the winding Jókulsá river collides with the marshy delta of upper Skagafjörður, you’ll find scenic Sauðárkrókur sitting quietly at the edge of the windy waterway.

Economically, Sauðárkrókur is pretty well off, with fishing, tanning and trading keeping the community afloat and the population young and energetic. The community has all the services you’ll need – a bank, a library, a laundry and a supermarket. There is, however, no information centre.

The town museum, Minjahúsið ( 453 6870; Aðalgata 16b; adult/under 16yr Ikr600/free; 1-6pm Jun-Aug), gives a great insight into local life in times past, with a series of restored workshops illustrating the day-to-day living conditions for local blacksmiths, carpenters, saddlers and watchmakers.

Sleeping

Campsite ( 453 8860) The free campsite beside the swimming pool has toilets, hot water and power. If the site is full, there is additional space by the church.

Gistiheimilið Mikligarður ( 453 6880; www.mikligardur.is; Kirkjutorgi 3; s/d without bathroom Ikr7800/11,300, with bathroom Ikr11,000/14,500; ) Absolutely adorable in every way possible, this welcoming spot near the church has comfortable, modern rooms with TV and tasteful decor. There’s also a spacious guest kitchen and TV lounge. Sleeping bag accommodation (Ikr3500) is available in winter.

Hótel Mikligarður ( 891 9147; www.mikligardur.is; sb/s/d incl breakfast Ikr4000/14,000/18,000; Jun–mid-Aug; ) The district boarding school becomes a basic but rather characterless hotel in summer. This is where you’ll end up when everything else is full.

Hótel Tindastóll ( 453 5002; www.hoteltindastoll.com; Lindargata 3; s/d incl breakfast Jun-Aug Ikr15,800/21,400, Sep-May Ikr8900/12,000; ) Tucked away in this understated town, Hótel Tindastóll is a charming boutique hotel dating from 1884 (apparently making it Iceland’s oldest hotel). The individually decorated rooms seamlessly blend period furniture and modern style. Outside there is an irresistible stone hot tub, and in the basement there’s a cosy bar where you can while away your evenings. Legend has it that Marlene Dietrich stayed here in 1941.

Eating

Kaffi Krókur ( 453 6299; Aðalgata 16; mains Ikr900-3500; 11.30am-11pm Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; ) The chef’s motto is ‘never trust a skinny cook’ and we’d be keen on gaining a few kilos here! The menu covers everything from burgers, fish and lamb dishes to fillet of foal and authentic pasta.

Ólafshús ( 453 6454; Aðalgata 15; pizzas Ikr1020-3120, mains Ikr1290-3190; 11am-10.30pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat) Almost across the road from Kaffi Krókur (and owned by the same people), this is a good choice for pizzas and Icelandic specialities such as fish and lamb. There’s also some choice for vegetarians. The restaurant bar is open until 3am on Friday and Saturday.

There’s a supermarket (Skagfirðingabraut) and a Vín Búð (Smáragrund 2).

Getting There & Away

In summer, two buses run daily between Varmahlíð and Sauðárkrókur, connecting with the Ring Road buses to Reykjavík and Akureyri. They leave from the shop opposite Hótel Tindastóll.

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WESTERN SKAGAFJÖRÐUR

North of Sauðárkrókur, Skagafjörður’s western coast is a stunningly silent place capped by scenic mountains that cast shadows over the islet-strewn sea.

Tindastóll

North of Sauðárkrókur, Tindastóll (989m) is a prominent Skagafjörður landmark, extending for 18km along the coast. The mountain and its caves are believed to be inhabited by an array of sea monsters, trolls and giants, one of which kidnapped the daughter of an early bishop of Hólar.

The summit of Tindastóll affords a spectacular view across all of Skagafjörður. The easiest way to the top is along the marked trail that starts from