Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [170]
In winter a ski lift (day pass Ikr800) operates in Skarðsdalur above the head of the fjord. From there, it’s a lovely day walk over Hólsfjall to the abandoned valley above Héðinsfjörður. In summer you can opt for a nine-hole round of golf at the Hóll sports centre.
Festivals & Events
Despite the utter demise of the herring industry, Siglufjörður remains nostalgic about the good old days and plays host to a lively herring festival on the bank holiday weekend in early August. It’s one of Iceland’s most enjoyable local festivals, with much singing, dancing, drinking, feasting and fish cleaning.
An annual Icelandic and foreign folk-music festival (þjóðlagahátíÐ á Siglufirði; http://festival.fjallabyggd.is) is staged over five days in early July, with workshops and several concerts every evening.
Sleeping & Eating
Most sleeping and eating options can be scouted on Aðalgata – turn away from the looming church when you reach the town square.
Campsite ( 460 5600; sites per tent/caravan Ikr700/1000; Jun-Aug) Oddly placed right in the middle of town near the harbour and town square, this municipal campsite has a toilet block and showers. You’ll find a second patch of grass beyond the city limits – follow Suðurgata out of town towards the tunnel to Ólafsfjörður.
Siglufjörður HI Hostel (Gistiheimilið Hvanneyri; 467 1378; alla@simnet.is; Aðalgata 10; sb/d Ikr2100/5800) Showing no signs of its former glory, Siglufjörður’s best choice is a rather faded four-storey guest house caught in a decor time warp. There’s a TV lounge, a huge dining room, a guest kitchen and a smattering of common bathrooms (the best one is on the third floor).
Aðalbakari ( 467 1720; Aðalgata 36; 7am-5pm Mon-Sat) Ideal for breakfast or lunch, this bakery and cafe serves the usual selection of bread, cakes, pastries and filled rolls as well as the Icelandic speciality ástar pungur (love balls) – deep-fried spiced balls of dough.
Allinn ( 467 1111; Aðalgata 30; mains Ikr800-2000; 10am-1am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat) This popular diner is the only genuine restaurant in town and serves good-value burgers, pizzas, fish and lamb dishes.
Pizza 67/Torgið ( 467 2323; Aðalgata; mains Ikr1500-2000; 11am-10pm Mon-Sat, 1-10pm Sun) Just down the road, this basic pizzeria is the only other dining option.
There’s a Samkaup-úrval supermarket ( 467 1201; 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat, 11am-7pm Sun) across from the harbour, and fishmonger Fiskbuð Siglufjörður ( 8am-12.15pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) is opposite Allinn. The Vín Búð is on Tungata near the intersection with Eyrargata.
Getting There & Away
From June to August there is a bus service that runs every day except Saturday (with two services on Tuesday and Friday) between Varmahlíð and Siglufjörður with a change in Sauðárkrókur.
A tunnel through the mountain will cut the journey between Siglufjörður and Ólafsfjörður (in Western Eyjafjörður) to only 15km; it’s expected to be finished in 2010. This is the quickest way to reach Akureyri from here. If the tunnel is not yet open, you can follow Rte 82 across the Tröllskagi Peninsula.
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AKUREYRI
pop 17,500
Akureyri stands strong as Iceland’s second city, but a Melbourne, Manchester or Montreal it is not. And how could it be? There are only 17,000 residents! It’s a wonder the city (which would be ‘town’ in any other country) generates this much buzz. Expect bustling cafes, gourmet restaurants and a late-night bustle – a far cry from the other towns in rural Iceland.
Snowcapped peaks rise behind the town, and across the city flower boxes, trees and well-tended gardens belie the city’s location just a stone’s throw from the Arctic Circle. With a lively summer festival season, some of Iceland’s best winter skiing, and a relaxed and easy attitude, it’s the natural base for exploring Eyjafjörður.
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HISTORY
The first permanent inhabitant of Eyjafjörður was Norse-Irish settler Helgi Magri (Helgi the Lean), who arrived in about 890. Although Helgi worshipped