Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [171]
By 1602 a trading post had been established at present-day Akureyri. There were still no permanent dwellings, though, as all the settlers maintained rural farms and homesteads. By the late 18th century the town had accumulated a whopping 10 residents, all Danish traders, and was granted municipal status.
The town soon began to prosper and by 1900 Akureyri’s population numbered 1370. The original cooperative, Gránufélagsins, had begun to decline and in 1906 it was replaced by Kaupfélagið Eyjafirdinga Akureyrar (KEA; the Akureyri Cooperative Society), whose ubiquitous insignia still graces many Akureyri businesses.
Today Akureyri is thriving. Its fishing company and shipyard are the largest in the country, and the city’s university (established in 1987) gives the town a youthful exuberance.
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ORIENTATION
Akureyri is small and easy to get around on foot, with a compact knot of cafes, bars, museums and shops just west of the busy commercial harbour. The town centre is concentrated around pedestrianised Hafnarstræti, with the small square Raðhústorg at its northern end. At the time of research, there were confirmed plans to move the information centre to the Hof near the harbour. This should happen sometime in 2010 once construction is complete.
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LONG WEEKEND REMIX: THE NORTHERN TRIANGLE
Perfectly positioned in the cool Atlantic waters between North America and Europe, Iceland has become the it destination for a sexy weekend getaway. For the last decade, savvy jetsetters have hopped over in droves for a romp in happenin’ Reykjavík, and tourist numbers spiked when the currency crashed in October 2008.
The constant stream of tourists has turned the three-day Reykjavík–Ring Road–Blue Lagoon trip into a well-worn circuit, so why not blaze a new trail and tackle Iceland’s northern triangle of stunning attractions: Mývatn, Húsavík and Akureyri. It’s a lot less legwork than you think – when you land at Keflavík airport, catch the Flybus to Reykjavík’s domestic terminal, then hop on one of the many daily flights up to Akureyri. And to make things even simpler, here’s a handy li’l planner:
Day 1 – Akureyri
Jump-start your visit to the north with something quintessentially Icelandic: horse riding. Trust us – these aren’t your usual horses. Then, a half-day is plenty of time to bop around the charming streets in the city centre (start on pedestrian-friendly Hafnarstræti). Or for those who can withstand another plane ride, it’s worth spending the afternoon on Grimsey, Iceland’s only slice of the Arctic Circle. For dinner, splurge on the ultimate Icelandic meal at Friðrik V, then flex your drinking arm with a spirited night out on the town. It doesn’t matter where you toss a few back ‘cause you won’t escape the wrath of the runtur (see the boxed text).
Day 2 – Húsavík
In the morning, early risers can snoop around some of the region’s hidden spots (see the boxed text); hangover victims should head straight to Húsavík. First, swing by the Húsavík Whale Museum for a bit of background info, then hop aboard a whale-watching tour. Get an eyeful of petrified manhood at the Iceland Phallological Museum before recounting your whale tales over dinner at Gamli Baukur.
Day 3 – Mývatn
For those of you who have been drooling over the tantalising photos of Iceland’s turquoise-tinted spa springs, fret not. Mývatn has its very own version of the Blue Lagoon! Known as the Mývatn Nature Baths, it’s smaller than its southern brother, but noticeably less touristy. After a leisurely soak, it’s time to get the blood flowing again. Try the three-hour hike around Eastern Mývatn, which takes in a veritable smorgasbord of geological anomalies. A stop at stinky Hverir is a must, and, if time permits, have a wander around the steam vents at Krafla. Then make your way back to Akureyri