Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [189]
Sights & Activities
After tackling the popular Eastern Lakeside hike Click here, there are some fantastic day hikes just north of ReykjahlíÐ – Click here for details.
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MARIMO BALLS
Marimo balls (Cladophora aegagropila) are bizarre little spheres of green algae that are thought to grow naturally in only two places in the world – Mývatn and Lake Akan in Japan. The spongy balls grow slowly, to about the size of a baseball, rising to the surface of the water in the morning to photosynthesise (when there’s enough sunlight) and sinking to the bottom at night.
The name marimo is the Japanese word for ‘algae ball’ – around Mývatn, the locals call ‘em kúluskítur, which literally means ‘ball of shit’. Swing by the Bird Museum to check out these curious critters – they live in the small pool at the centre of the exhibition space. If no other tourists are around (and if you ask very politely) the friendly staff may let you hold one. There are also a few marimo balls living in a cloudy aquarium at the Sel-Hotel’s restaurant Click here.
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MÝVATN NATURE BATHS
Clouds of steam rise from the turquoise-blue waters at the Mývatn Nature Baths (Jarðbaðshólar; 464 4411; www.jardbodin.is; adult/8-16yr Ikr2000/1000, towel/swimsuit/bathrobe hire Ikr400/400/700; 9am-11pm Jun-Aug, noon-9.30pm Sep-May; ), 3km east of ReykjahlíÐ. This is northern Iceland’s answer to the Blue Lagoon and, although smaller, it’s a gorgeous place to ease aching muscles in the mineral-rich water. After a relaxing soak, try one of the three natural steam baths and a rich dessert at the large on-site restaurant.
TOWN CENTRE
During the huge Krafla eruption of 1727, the Leirhnjúkur crater, 11km northeast of ReykjahlíÐ, kicked off a two-year period of volcanic activity, sending streams of lava along old glacial moraines towards the lakeshore. On 27 August 1729 the flow ploughed through the village, destroying farms and buildings, but amazingly the wooden church was spared – some say miraculously – when the flow parted, missing the church by only a few metres. It was rebuilt on its original foundation in 1876, then again in 1962.
Ásta, the town’s best-kept secret, pummels tense travellers at Magma Essentials ( 464 3740; www.magmaessentials.com; Birkihraun 11), hidden on a residential road.
A stormy day in Reykjahlíð is well spent relaxing at the 25m outdoor swimming pool (adult/under 14yr Ikr300/150; 9am-10pm mid-Jun–Aug, 9am-8pm Mon-Thu & 10am-4pm Sat Sep–mid-Jun) and hot tub. The complex also has a sauna, solarium and gym (Ikr550).
Tours
Reykjahlíð is the starting point for numerous tours of the Mývatn region – Click here for details.
Festivals & Events
Held in March or April, Orkugangan is a popular cross-country skiing event in which participants swoosh from Krafla to Húsavík (60km).
The Úrvadí Ur Mýflugur festival (which idiomatically means ‘making a mountain out of a molehill’) is a family-friendly rock festival held in July in a barn between the town’s two hotels.
In late May the annual Mývatn marathon (www.myvatn.is/marathon) follows a circuit around the lake, attracting hardy souls from across the country. The organisers also host 3km and 10km fun runs.
Sleeping
Sleeping in Mývatn during the summertime is, as Project Runway’s Tim Gunn would say, a ‘hot mess’. The region’s recent surge in popularity means that room rates are soaring (most places are [over]priced in euros), and the demand is far greater than the supply, so don’t think twice about booking ahead! Johnny-come-latelies with their own vehicle might find something within a 40km radius of the lake, but tourists using public transport will be hard-pressed to scout out a sleeping spot without a bit of planning – campsites are even known to book up during the busier weekends (wild camping around Mývatn is not allowed).
The following options are located either in central Reykjahlíð or at Vógar, a small cluster of buildings further along the lake’s eastern shore (about 2.5km south of ReykjahlíÐ). Additional lodging options can be found