Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [190]
BUDGET & MIDRANGE
Hlíð campsite (HlíÐ Ferðaþjónusta; 464 4103; www.simnet.is/hlid; Hraunbrún; sites per person Ikr1000, electricity Ikr500, sb/cabins Ikr4000/5000; ) This large, well-maintained campsite has showers, toilets, drying sheds and, in summer, a kitchen tent. There’s also a laundry service (Ikr500 per wash and Ikr500 to dry), mountain-bike rental (Ikr1200/1600 per afternoon/full day) and internet access (Ikr500 per hour/unlimited wi-fi). Sleeping-bag accommodation is available across the road in no-frills rooms with a large shared kitchen and bathroom. There are also six basic cabins sleeping two. The Hlíð is 300m uphill from the church.
Bjarg campsite (Ferðaþjónustan Bjarg; 464 4240; ferdabjarg@simnet.is; sites per person Ikr1100, sb/d Ikr2900/11,500; mid-May–Sep; ) This smaller site has a lovely location on the lake shore and features modern shower blocks, a kitchen tent, laundry service, summer boat rental (Ikr2000 for the first hour, Ikr1000 per hour thereafter), bike hire (Ikr2000 per day) and internet access (Ikr400/600 per half-hour/hour). Accommodation is also available in a couple of bright, freshly carpeted rooms in the main building.
Helluhraun 13 ( 464 4132, 846 7392; helluhraun13@gmail.com, www.helluhraun13.blogspot.com; Helluhraun 13; d Ikr12,500; Jun-Sep) There are just three rooms and one bathroom at this small guest house, but they’re spacious, bright and tastefully decorated, with wood floors and white linens. Breakfast is included in the price, as are the privileged views of the dramatic lava field out the kitchen window. Sleeping bags (Ikr3000) can be used in early June and late September.
Vógar ( 464 3800; www.vogafjos.net; Vógar; sites per person Ikr1000, sb dm/d €20/49, dm/d €30/68; mid-May–mid-Sep) Sleeping-bag accommodation is located in utilitarian prefab huts, while made-up beds can be found in a cosy, honey-coloured farmhouse. Shared bathrooms throughout.
Eldá ( 464 4220; www.elda.is; Helluhraun 15; sb Ikr2900 Sep-May only, s/d Ikr9800/13,900; ) This friendly family-run guest house operation owns four properties along Helluhraun and offers cosy accommodation in each one. There are guest kitchens and TV lounges, and an impressive buffet breakfast is included in the rates. All guests should check in at this location.
TOP END
Hótel Reykjahlíð ( 464 4142; www.reykjahlid.is; ReykjahlíÐ 2; Jun-Aug s/d Ikr20,000/25,500, Sep-May Ikr12,800/15,000; ) Looking out over the lake, this small hotel with a relaxed attitude has a choice of bright, spacious rooms with contemporary, neutral furnishings and handy black-out blinds. The relaxed restaurant (open 7pm to 10pm) serves a good selection of traditional salmon, char and lamb dishes as well as more international chicken and vegetarian specialities (three courses Ikr4500 to Ikr5800). Reservations are a must.
Vogafjós Guesthouse ( 464 4399; www.vogahraun.is; Vógar; s/d incl €135/155) Fresh scents of pine and cedar fill the air in the Cowshed’s ultra-cosy log cabins. Breakfast is served at the moo-filled cafe down the road (below).
Hótel Reynihlíð ( 464 4170; www.myvatnhotel.is; s/d €165/201; ) The rude welcome we received hasn’t deterred the scores of tour groups from shacking up at Mývatn’s most upmarket (and overpriced) option. If you’re gonna drop the big bucks then stick with a standard room. The superior rooms aren’t a noticeable upgrade; they only have slightly better views. The in-house restaurant (two-/three-course dinner Ikr5900/6400) is the town’s swankiest and features a long list of faves like smoked trout, bacalao, duck, fresh lamb and skyr with blueberries.
Eating & Drinking
The local food speciality is a moist, cake-like rye bread known as hverabrauð. It’s slow-baked underground and served in every restaurant in town. Ask at the service centre in Dimmuborgir