Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [191]
Vogafjós Café (The Cowshed; 464 4303, 464 3800; Vógar 1; snacks Ikr600-1000, mains Ikr2300-4000; 7.30-10am & 11am-11pm early May–early Oct & Dec) Located 2.5km south of ReykjahlíÐ, this bizarre but memorable cafe features large picture windows between the dining room and the dairy shed of a working farm. You can watch the cows being milked as you sip your coffee and tuck into the tasty selection of sandwiches, cakes, waffles, pancakes and smoked trout. The cows are milked daily at 7.30am and 6pm.
Gamli Bærinn (Old Farm Cafe; 464 4270; mains Ikr1500-2900; 10am-11pm) This busy pub-style restaurant beside Hótel Reynihlíð is a popular place for a bite. The menu features a wide selection of dishes, including traditional fish stew, pan-fried lamb, juicy burgers and a bumper selection of desserts. In the evening it becomes the local hangout – the opening hours are often extended during weekend revelry, but the kitchen closes promptly at 10pm.
The Samkaup supermarket ( 10am-8pm) at the N1 petrol station is well stocked and has a hot -dog grill.
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EASTERN MÝVATN
If you’re short on time, make this area your first stop. The sights along Mývatn’s eastern lakeshore can be linked together on an enjoyable half-day hike (see the boxed text, opposite).
Stóragjá & Grjótagjá
About 100m beyond Reykjahlíð is Stóragjá, a rather eerie, watery fissure that was once a popular bathing spot. Cooling water temperatures (currently about 28°C) and the growth of potentially harmful algae mean it’s no longer safe to swim in the cave, but it’s an alluring spot with clear waters and a rock roof.
Further on at Grjótagjá there’s another gaping fissure with a water-filled cave, this time at about 45°C – too hot to soak in, but you can get away with dipping your toes. It’s a beautiful spot, particularly when the sun filters through the cracks in the roof and illuminates the interior.
Hverfell
Dominating the lava fields on the eastern edge of Mývatn is the classic tephra ring Hverfell. This near-symmetrical crater appeared 2500 years ago in a cataclysmic eruption of the existing Lúdentarhíð complex. Rising 463m from the ground and stretching 1040m across, it is a massive and awe-inspiring landmark in Mývatn.
The crater is composed of loose gravel, but an easy track leads from the northwestern end to the summit and offers stunning views of the crater itself and the surrounding landscape. From the rim of the crater the sheer magnitude of the explosion becomes apparent – a giant gaping hole reaching out across the mountain. A path runs along the western rim of the crater to a lookout at the southern end before descending steeply towards Dimmuborgir.
LÚDENTARBORGIR & BLÁFJALL
A second path on Hverfell leads southeast, away from the main lake area, to a region of forbidding mountains, deserts and rugged geological features. With plenty of time and determination, it makes challenging terrain for experienced hikers.
The Lúdentarborgir crater row (about 6km long) is part of the 8km Þrengslaborgir fissure. A marked path follows the astonishingly straight line of seismic divots. The trail ends at Heilagsdalur (20km south of Hverfell), where you can pitch a tent beside the abandoned house. The building here is owned by a tour operator based in Húsavík – be sure to ask permission at the info centre in Reykjahlíð if you plan to crash inside.
From Heilagsdalur, you can ascend the beautiful table mountain Bláfjall (1222m). The journey takes about 2½ hours; the hike is somewhat strenuous since there is no marked path to the summit. From the top, you’ll be afforded breathtaking views of Herðubreið – Queen of the Mountains – and the crystal glaciers beyond.
Check out the Útivist & afþreying #4 map for a visual plan of the journey. The trailhead is located near ‘15’; however, the path itself (heading south) does not have a number.
Dimmuborgir
The giant jagged lava