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By Root 1653 0

field at Dimmuborgir (literally ‘the Dark Castles’) is one of the most fascinating flows in the country. And the story of Dimmuborgir’s formation is almost as convoluted as its criss-crossing network of columnar lava. It’s commonly believed that these strange pillars and crags were created about 2000 years ago when lava from the Þrengslaborgir and Lúdentarborgir crater rows flowed across older Hverfell lava fields. The new lava was dammed into a fiery lake in the Dimmuborgir basin and, as the surface of this lake cooled, a domed roof formed over the still-molten material below. The roof was supported by pillars of older igneous material, so when the dam finally broke, the molten lava drained and the odd pillars remained.

A series of colour-coded walking trails runs through Dimmuborgir’s easily anthropomorphised landscape. The most popular path is the easy Church Circle (2.25km; also known as the Kirkjan route), which takes roughly one hour if you’re a bit camera crazy like us. Travellers on a tighter schedule can try the Small Circle (550m; 10 minutes) or the Big Circle (800m; 20 minutes) for a sampling of the lava field’s gnarled turrets. Treacherous fissures abound – it’s best to stick to the marked paths.

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EASTERN LAKESIDE HIKE

Although easily accessible by car, the sights along Mývatn’s eastern lakeshore can also be tackled on a pleasant half-day hike in good weather. A well-marked track runs from Reykjahlíð to Hverfell (5km), passing intriguing Grjótagjá along the way. Then it’s on to Dimmuborgir (another 2.5km) with its collection of ruin-like lava. If you start in the late afternoon and time your hike correctly, you’ll finish the day with a hearty meal at Dimmuborgir while sunset shadows dance along the alien landscape. The Dimmuborgir Service Centre (below) offers guided hikes (three hours; around Ikr2000) along the aforementioned trail. The trip starts in Reykjahlíð and a shuttle ride back to town is included in the price.

If you are using the excellent Útivist & afþreying map series (available at most information centres in the region), this 8km hike is featured as Trail 16 on map #4.

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Be sure to visit the handy Dimmuborgir Service Centre ( 464 1144, 894 1470; www.visitdimmuborgir.is; 10am-10pm late May–early Sep, reduced hours early Sep–late May) at the top of the ridge (you can’t miss it) – it’s a tour office, souvenir shop, gallery and cafe all rolled into one. While Reykjahlíð hosts a bevy of tour options in the greater region, the staff at Dimmuborgir run a series of guided trips around Mývatn’s eastern edge. At the time of research, free one-hour tours (daily at 11am and 5.30pm) looped the ‘Church Circle’ and focused on the local geology and culture. Other trips include a fascinating hike along the straight row of dramatic craters at Lúdentarborgir (opposite), and a four-day hike (80km) from the Víti crater at Krafla to scenic Ásbyrgi in Vatnajökull National Park. It’s definitely worth checking in to see what new tour itineraries are being conjured up. The on-site restaurant (mains from Ikr1200) is a great place to enjoy a late dinner in summer. Grab a table on the outside terrace, nibble on the homemade hverabraud, and watch the sun dance its shadows across the jagged lava bursts and dimpled craters. Picnic lunches are available for busier schedules.

The aptly named Dimmuborgir Guesthouse ( 464 4210, 894 3042; www.dimmuborgir.is; Geiteyjarströnd 1; campsite/s/d/cottages €12/50/90/110-225) is the only accommodation in the area. Single and double rooms are tucked behind enormous picture windows in the main house (open all year, 20% discounts in June and September, 50% discounts during winter months) while the scatter of wooden cottages curve near the lake’s edge in two neat rows (closed in the colder months) – No 9 is our favourite. It’s worth swinging by if you’re stuck without accommodation – the managers will often leave a small room available for stragglers. Oh, and don’t miss the smokehouse hidden in the back – check out the rows of shiny orange salmon, and stock up on the