Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [193]
Höfði
One of the area’s gentlest landscapes is on the forested lava headland at Höfði. Wildflowers, birch and spruce trees cover the bluffs, while the tiny islands and crystal-clear waters attract great northern divers and other migratory birds. Along the shore you’ll see many small caves and stunning klasar (lava pillars), the most famous of which are at Kálfaströnd on the southern shore of the Höfði Peninsula. Here, the klasar rise from the water in dramatic clusters. Rambling footpaths lead across the headland and can easily fill an hour.
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SOUTHERN MÝVATN
Eastern Mývatn may be the ultimate treasure trove of geological anomalies, but the south side of the lake lures the crowds with its epic cache of pseudocraters Click here. The most accessible swarm is located along a short path in Skútustaðagígar, just across from Skútustaðir (see below).
The nearby pond, Stakhólstjörn, and its surrounding area are havens for nesting waterfowl and were designated a national natural monument in 1973. The boggy marshland here is particularly delicate, so hikers are asked to stick to the marked trails.
Skútustaðir
The small village of Skútustaðir is the only ‘major’ settlement (and we use that term lightly) around the lake apart from Reykjahlíð. During Saga times, the area was owned by the notorious Vigaskúta, who was known for his ruthlessness and was marked for assassination by his neighbours. He was clever, though, and more often than not turned the tables on those who threatened him.
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PSEUDOCRATERS
Like blasts on the landscape from some sinister alien spacecraft, the dramatic dimples along Mývatn’s otherworldly terrain were formed when molten lava flowed into the lake, triggering a series of gas explosions. Known as ‘pseudocraters’, these hills came into being when trapped subsurface water boiled and popped, forming small scoria cones and craters. The largest clusters, which measure more than 300m across, are east of Vindbelgjarfjall (right) on the western shore of Mývatn. The smallest ones – the islets in the lake – are just a couple of metres wide and are best appreciated from the air.
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SLEEPING & EATING
Skútustaðir Farmhouse ( 464 4212; www.skutustadir.com; d without/with bathroom Ikr10,000/13,000) This friendly guest house near the Sel-Hótel Mývatn has a selection of comfortable, homey rooms and offers sleeping-bag space (Ikr3500) in the low season.
Hótel Gígur ( 464 4455; www.keahotels.is; Skútustaðir; s/d Ikr14,600/18,500 Jun-Aug, Ikr11,400/14,500 Sep-May; ) The lovely lakeside location here compensates for the extra-compact rooms at this business-style hotel. Popular with tour groups and often full, it’s a comfortable place with tasteful but simple decor, en-suite bathrooms and free internet access for guests. The restaurant (mains Ikr2190 to Ikr4490) offers one of the best lake views in the whole area, with a lovely outdoor seating area and giant glass windows inside to protect you from the swarming midges as you watch the sunset over the lake.
Sel-Hótel Mývatn ( 464 4164; www.myvatn.is; s/d Jun-Aug €150/183, Sep-May €68/82; ) Skútustaðir’s top hotel is looking a bit faded, but its spacious, bright rooms are still comfy. There’s a hot pot, sauna, lounge, cafeteria and souvenir shop. The restaurant (lunch/dinner buffet Ikr2100/4300) is home to a few marimos (see the boxed text) and offers an assortment of Icelandic oddities (rotten shark and the like) mixed in with a standard evening buffet. Ask about possible winter activities.
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WESTERN MÝVATN
The clear and turbulent Laxá (Salmon River), one of the many Icelandic rivers so named, cuts the western division of Mývatn, rolling straight across the tundra towards Skjálfandi (Húsavík’s whale-filled bay). The Laxá is one of the best – and most expensive – salmon-fishing spots in the country. More affordable brown-trout fishing is also available.
The easy climb up 529m-high Vindbelgjarfjall, further north along the western shore, offers one of