Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [203]
The petrol station on Rte 85 near the info centre at Ásbyrgi has a decent selection of reasonably priced groceries; however, the food at the on-site grill isn’t stellar. If you’re hiking, it’s best to purchase your supplies in Akureyri or Húsavík.
Getting There & Away
There are two north–south roads running parallel to one another on each side of the canyon. On the west side of the canyon, Rte F862 runs from Ásbyrgi to Dettifoss, but at the time of research only the stretch from Ásbyrgi to Vesturdalur could accommodate 2WD vehicles; 4WDs can make it all the way. There are big plans underway to create a long paved route running the length of the park’s western side, connecting Rte 1 to Rte 85. An asphalted lane from the Ring Road to Dettisfoss will be ready in late 2010 – the rest of the way should be completed by 2012.
The road on the east side (Rte 864) is a poorly maintained gravel track beyond the park’s boundaries. It’s passable by 2WD vehicles, but its rutted and potholed surface will tire even the most patient of drivers. There are no plans to improve the road’s conditions. Although the park is open all year, the east road is only open from late May/early June until sometime between early October and early November (weather dependant).
From late June to August, daily scheduled buses run from Akureyri and Húsavík to Ásbyrgi (Ikr4100), Hljóðaklettar (Ikr5000) and Dettifoss (Ikr6000). The leg from Ásbyrgi to Dettifoss costs Ikr2200. There’s also a daily Mývatn–Dettifoss (Ikr2500, 1½ hours) bus via Krafla (Ikr1200, 15 minutes), leaving at 8am from the supermarket in Reykjahlíð and returning from Dettifoss at 2pm.
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ÁSBYRGI
Driving off Rte 85 on to the flat, grassy plain at the northern end of the park, there’s little to tell you you’re standing on the edge of a massive horseshoe-shaped canyon. The lush Ásbyrgi canyon extends 3.5km from north to south and averages 1km in width, making it difficult to discern at its widest point. Near the centre of the canyon is the prominent outcrop Eyjan, and towards the south the sheer, dark walls rise up to 100m. The cliffs protect a birch forest from harsh winds and hungry sheep, and the trees here grow up to 8m in height.
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ÁSBYRGI TO DETTIFOSS HIKE
The most popular hike in Vatnajökull National Park’s Jökulsárgljúfur canyon is the two-day trip (34km) from Ásbyrgi to Dettifoss, which moves through birch forests, striking rock formations, lush valleys and commanding perpendicular cliffs while taking in all of the region’s major sights. From Ásbyrgi you can follow the canyon’s western rim or river’s edge to Vesturdalur where you’ll spend the night (camping is forbidden elsewhere). On the second day you’ll continue on through to gushing Dettifoss, passing a dip at Hafragil along the way – the only part of the journey that is not categorised as ‘easy’.
The hike can be done in both directions; however, the park rangers recommend starting in Ásbyrgi where you can pick up the required maps and brochures to annotate your journey. Also, the vistas reveal themselves more dramatically when travelling in a southerly direction. SBA runs a bus between Dettifoss and Ásbyrgi for those who need to return to their vehicle back north (see opposite). Adventurous types can tag on a second leg to Krafla. You’ll want a GPS (there are no marked trails) and a copy of the Útivist & afþreying #3 map. Aim to spend a night on the west side of lake Eilífsvötn – it’ll take one more day of hiking to reach the signature steaming fields.
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There are two stories about the creation of Ásbyrgi. The early Norse settlers believed that Óðinn’s normally airborne horse, Slættur (known in literature as Sleipnir), accidentally touched