Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [204]
From the car park near the end of the road, several short tracks lead through the forest to viewpoints of the canyon. Heading east the track leads to a spring near the canyon wall, while the western track climbs to a good view across the valley floor. The boardwalk leading straight ahead ends at a small lake (Botnstjörn) at the head of Ásbyrgi.
You can also climb to the summit of Eyjan (2km, 45 minutes return) or ascend the cliffs at Tófugjá. From there, a looping track leads around Áshöfði past the gorges. Alternatively, follow the rim right around to Klappir, above the canyon head, from where you can head south to Kvíar (or east to Kúahvammur) and return via the river (the route via Kvíar will take up to four hours return).
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VESTURDALUR
Off the beaten track but home to diverse scenery, Vesturdalur is a favourite destination for hikers. A series of weaving trails leads from the scrub around the campsite to the cave-riddled pinnacles and rock formations of Hljóðaklettar, the Rauðhólar crater row, the ponds of Eyjan (not to be confused with the Eyjan at Ásbyrgi) and the canyon itself. Reckon on a full day or two to explore the area properly.
Hljóðaklettar
The bizarre swirls, spirals, rosettes, honeycombs and columns of basalt at Hljóðaklettar (Echoing Rocks) are a highlight of any hike around Vesturdalur and a puzzling place for amateur geologists. It’s difficult to imagine what sort of volcanic activity produced the twisted rock forms here. Weird concertina formations and repeat patterns occur throughout, and the normally vertical basalt columns (formed by rapidly cooling lava) show up on the horizontal here. These strange forms and patterns create an acoustic effect that makes it impossible to determine the direction of the roaring river, a curiosity that gave the area its name.
A circular walking trail (2.4km) from the parking area takes less than an hour to explore. The best formations, which are also riddled with lava caves, are found along the river, northeast of the parking area. Look out for Trollið, with its honeycomb pattern, Kirkjan, a natural cave in a grassy pit, and Kastali, a huge basalt outcrop. Blueberries abound in late August.
Rauðhólar
The Rauðhólar crater row, immediately north of Vesturdalur, displays a vivid array of colours in the cinderlike gravel on the remaining cones. The craters can be explored on foot during an interesting 5km walk from the parking area.
Karl og Kerling
Two rock pillars, Karl og Kerling (‘Old Man’ and ‘Old Woman’), believed to be petrified trolls, stand on a gravel bank west of the river, 2.5km from the Vesturdalur car park. Across the river is Tröllahellir, the largest cave in the gorge, but it’s reached only on a 5km cross-country hike from Rte 864 on the eastern side.
Eyjan
From Karl og Kerling you can return to Vesturdalur in about three hours by walking around Eyjan, a mesalike ‘island’ covered with low, scrubby forests and small ponds. Follow the river south to Kallbjörg, then turn west along the track to the abandoned site of Svínadalur, where the canyon widens into a broad valley, and follow the western base of the Eyjan cliffs back to the Vesturdalur parking area.
Hólmatungur
Lush vegetation, tumbling waterfalls and an air of utter tranquillity make the Hólmatungur area one of the most beautiful in the park. Underground springs bubble up to form a series of short rivers that twist, turn and cascade their way to the canyon. The most popular walk here is the 3.5km loop from the parking area north along the Hólmá river to Hólmáfoss, where the harsh