Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [216]
Sámur moves into Aðalból, and makes a few home improvements. The pagan temple is destroyed, and the horse Freyfaxi weighted with stones, thrown over a cliff and drowned in the water below. Hrafnkell, by now convinced that his favourite god doesn’t give two hoots about him, renounces his religious beliefs and sets up on a new farm, Hrafnkelsstaðir. He vows to change his vengeful nature and becomes a kind and simple farmer, becoming so well liked in his new neighbourhood that he gains even more wealth and power than before.
One day, Sámur and his brother Eyvindur pass by en route to Aðalból. Hrafnkell’s maid sees them and goads her employer into taking revenge for his earlier humiliation. Hrafnkell abandons the Mr Nice Guy routine, sets out in pursuit of the troublesome brothers, kills Eyvindur, and offers Sámur the same choice that he was offered before – give up Aðalból and live in shame, or be put to death. Sámur also decides not to die. Hrafnkell thus regains his former estates and lives happily ever after at Aðalból.
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WEST OF EGILSSTAÐIR
Snæfell
No one seems to know whether 1833m-high Snæfell is an extinct volcano, or if it’s just having a rest. Iceland’s highest peak outside the Vatnajökull massif is relatively accessible, making it popular with hikers and mountaineers. Snæfell looms over the southern end of Fljótsdalsheiði, an expanse of spongy tussocks of wet tundra, boulder fields, perennial snow patches and alpine lakes, stretching westwards from Lagarfljót into the highlands.
Work on the controversial Kárahnjúkar dam Click here has brought improved roads around Snæfell, with the small-car-friendly Rte F910 from Fljótsdalur being the best way up. (It’s still pretty vertical, though!) Along the way, watch for wild reindeer. At the base of the peak, at 800m elevation, is Ferðafélag Íslands’ Snæfell mountain hut (N 64°48.250’, W 15°38.600’; per person Ikr2500), accommodating up to 62 people, with a kitchen, a camping area and showers.
Although climbing the mountain itself is not difficult for experienced, well-prepared hikers, the weather can be a concern and technical equipment is required. Discussing your route first with the hut warden is a good idea.
One of Iceland’s most challenging and rewarding hikes takes you from Snæfell to the Lónsöræfi district Click here in southeast Iceland. The five-day route begins at the Snæfell hut and heads across the glacier Eyjabakkajökull (an arm of Vatnajökull) to Geldingafell, Egilssel and Múlaskáli huts before dropping down to the coast at Stafafell.
This route should not be approached lightly – it’s for experienced trekkers only. You’ll need a GPS and, for the glacier crossing, you must be skilled at using a rope, crampons and an ice axe. If you’re unsure of your skills, you’d be much wiser doing the trip commercially with Ferðafélag Íslands ( 568 2533; www.fi.is; Mörkin 6, IS-108 Reykjavík).
Jökulsá á Dal
A small stream, formed by rivulets from the hillsides, puddles through what was once a riverbed carved out by a more powerful river (now harnessed in the Hálslón reservoir). The part alongside the Ring Road is said to be haunted by mischievous leprechauns and bloodthirsty Norse deities.
The outcrop called Goðanes, about 3km west of the farm Hofteigur, was the site of an ancient pagan temple where some ruins are still visible. The iron-stained spring Blóðkelda (Blood Spring) carries an apocryphal legend that the blood of both human and animal sacrifices once flowed into it.
If travelling with kids, consider breaking up a long car journey at Klaustursel ( 471 1085; allis@centrum.is), 6km off the Ring Road along rough Rte 923 (the alarming little bridge you cross was once part of the American railway!). The farm has swans and geese, and you can pat the soft noses of the oh-so-pretty reindeer. Don’t miss Olavia’s unique accessories