Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [217]
Continuing along Rte 923 leads you to the valley of Hrafnkelsdalur (about 100km from Egilsstaðir), full of Saga Age sites relating to Hrafnkell’s Saga (see the boxed text, opposite). The farm Aðalból ( 471 2788; www.simnet.is/samur; sites per person Ikr500, sb/linen Ikr2400/3500; Jun–mid-Sep) was the home of the saga’s hero, Hrafnkell Freysgoði, and his burial mound is here. At the time of writing the occupier was marking a 10km-long saga trail, threading together places mentioned in the story; even if you’re not a raving saga addict, it’s an interesting walking area off the tourist trail.
There’s simple accommodation available at Aðalból farm, and a petrol pump, but unless you preorder meals Egilsstaðir is the nearest place to buy food. The road becomes the F910 before you reach Aðalból, but it’s easily driveable (if a bit skiddy) in a normal car. It’s definitely 4WD only once you continue past Aðalból – an alternative route to Snæfell, or to the Kárahnjúkar dam (Click here).
The reconstructed turf farmhouse Sænautasel ( 471 1086; daily Jul & Aug), dating from 1843, really brings the past to life…plus it sells pancakes and coffee. This is one of several old farms on Jökuldalsheiði that were originally abandoned when Askja erupted in 1875. The building is beside the lake Sænautavatn, 32km west of Hofteigur and 4km south of the Ring Road via Rte 907. This area was a source of inspiration for Halldór Laxness’ master work, Independent People; you may notice that many of the farm names here match those of the fictional farms in the book.
Return to beginning of chapter
THE EASTFJORDS
Unlike the histrionic, wildly folding Westfjords, the Eastfjords wiggle more modestly around the coast. The difference is akin to an overtheatrical actor chewing up the scenery and an underemoting character in some Scandinavian art-house film.
Despite good surfaced roads and all the smelter-related activity, the Eastfjords still seems remote – a feeling enhanced by immense, dramatic mountainsides and the tiny working fishing villages that nestle under them.
The fjords are the true highlight of eastern Iceland. There are some lovely walks; you can kayak to far-off headlands; thousands of sea birds nest along the cliffs; and it’s amazing how many dolphin pods you can spot if you choose a good vantage point and wait.
In a Finest Fjord competition it would be hard to pick a winner – Borgarfjörður has ethereal rhyolite cliffs, Seyðisfjörður fosters a cheery bohemian vibe, Mjóifjörður is riddled with waterfalls, and Norðfjörður hides amongst thick tufts of cottony fog. You’ll just have to visit and choose your own favourite.
The following section is organised from north to south. For all information on public transport in the region, Click here.
Return to beginning of chapter
BORGARFJÖRÐUR EYSTRI (BAKKAGERÐI)
pop 100
This village, the most northerly in the Eastfjords, is in a stunning location. It’s framed by a backdrop of rugged rhyolite peaks on one side and the spectacular Dyrfjöll mountains on the other. There’s very little in the village itself, although weird driftwood sculptures, hidden elves, crying sea birds and pounding waves exude a strange charm. (If anyone happened to watch the reality TV program Rockstar Supernova, this is where Magni is from!).
If you’re looking for local information, check out www.borgarfjordureystri.is or try stopping by Álfheimar Gistihús (right) – it has several hiking brochures about the area, and sells an interesting CD of local legends retold by lively storytellers.
Sights & Activities
If you haven’t seen any puffins during your Icelandic foray, now’s your chance. The gigantic puffin colony on the islet Hafnarhólmi (connected to the mainland by a causeway 5km northeast of town), has more than 10,000 puffin couples, each with their own multiroom burrow. The free viewing platform is open in June and July and allows you to get up close and personal with these clumsy, cute creatures. The puffins arrive mid-April and on exactly 15 August they depart en masse – it’s like they