Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [218]
Jóhannes Sveinsson Kjarval (1885–1972), Iceland’s best-known artist, was brought up on the nearby farm Geitavík and took much of his inspiration from the rhyolite-studded surroundings at Borgarfjörður Eystri. The Kjarvalsstofa ( 862 6163; adult/child Ikr500/free; 1-5pm mid-Jun–Aug), inside the Fjarðarborg community centre, is the village’s tribute to him, but we like his unusual altarpiece in the small church Bakkagerðiskirkja a lot more. It depicts the Sermon on the Mount and is directly aimed at his village of fishermen and farmers – Jesus is preaching from Álfaborg, with the mountain Dyrfjöll in the background. From the town’s monument to the painter, it’s a signposted half-hour walk to Smalakofi Kjarvals, the ruins of a stone shepherd’s hut that Kjarval built as a child.
You can’t miss the village’s hairiest house…bright red Lindarbakki (1899) is completely cocooned by whiskery green grass, with only a few windows and a giant pair of antlers sticking out. It’s a private home and not open to the public, but an interesting information board outside tells you more about its history. We particularly liked the estate agent’s comments from 1979…
Álfaborg (Elf Rock), the small mound and nature reserve near the campsite, is the ‘borg’ that gave Borgarfjörður Eystri its name. From the ‘view disc’ on top there’s a fabulous vista of the surrounding fields, which turn white in summer with blooming arctic cotton. Some locals believe that the queen of Icelandic elves lives here.
If you need a break from the kids, bring them to Ævintýraland (Adventure Land; admission Ikr300; 1-5pm Jun-Aug), where they can snuggle up with a colourful pillow and an iPod and listen to several reinterpretations of the local elf stories (there are 14 five-minute tales – eight have been translated into English). There’s also a painting room (Ikr100 to Ikr500 per item), where the little ones can doodle on all sorts of items.
Festivals & Events
Held in an abandoned herring plant on the third weekend of July, Bræðislan is becoming one of the most famous summer concert festivals in all of Iceland. The event features three to five big-ticket bands and has included Emiliana Torrini (who used to spend her summer in isolated Borgarfjörður), Damien Rice, and Páll Óskar, who flitted across the stage in ’09.
Sleeping
Campsite ( 472 9999; magnus@eldhorn.is; sites per person Ikr750) Beside the church, this quiet green site has a kitchen and free showers. The third night is free.
Borgarfjörður HI Hostel (Ásbyrgi; 472 9962, 866 3913; www.hostel.is; sb/linen Ikr2800/3400; May–mid-Sep) This small hostel offers sleeping-bag accommodation for up to 17 people. There’s a guest kitchen and a washing machine.
Réttarholt ( 472 9913; helgim@mi.is; sb/linen Ikr2500/3500) This year-round guest house has three simple, brightly quilted rooms in the basement of a charming home. There’s a cosy guest kitchen and the house is set in the most lovely garden, full of odd sculptures and pieces of lichen-covered wood.
Gistiheimilið Borg ( 472 9870, 894 4470; gistingborg@simnet.is; sb/linen Ikr2700/3900) Borg is a good bet for a bed, since the owner has a few houses in the village. Rooms are OK if old fashioned, with cooking and lounge facilities. Breakfast (Ikr900) is available in summer.
Álfheimar Gistihús ( 861 3677; www.borgarfjordureystri.is; Merkisvegur; s/d Ikr11,000/14,000; ) The best place to stay in town by far, these brand-new rows of semidetached wooden cottages are simple yet stylish. There’s an on-site restaurant that serves excellent local fare and the affable owners are a font of knowledge about the local area.
Eating
Álfa Café ( 897 2765, 470 2000; 11am-8pm) This is the main place to eat. Check out the 2250kg piece of raw jasper sitting on the front lawn (it’s the biggest piece ever found in Iceland). Inside you’ll find customers enjoying traditional light nibbles such as fish soup, flatbread with lamb sausage or smoked trout, while sitting at large stone-slab