Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [220]
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SEYÐISFJÖRÐUR
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If you visit only one town in the Eastfjords, this picturesque place should be it. Made up of multicoloured wooden houses, and surrounded by snowcapped mountains and cascading waterfalls, Seyðisfjörður is the most historically and architecturally interesting town in east Iceland. It’s also a friendly place with a gregarious and bohemian community of artists, musicians and craftspeople.
Summer is the liveliest time to visit, particularly when the Smyril Line’s ferry Norröna sails majestically up the 17km-long fjord to the town – a perfect way to arrive in Iceland.
The substance and soul of the village has traditionally been focused on the fishing industry. For a glimpse of what life here was like 40 years ago, we recommend the moving film Kaldaljós (Cold Light; 2004), partly filmed in Seyðisfjörður.
If the weather’s good, the scenic Rte 93 from Egilsstaðir is a delight, climbing to a high pass then descending along the waterfall-filled river Fjarðará. If it’s bad weather you probably won’t see much more than the tail-lights of the car in front!
History
Seyðisfjörður started as a trading centre in 1848, but its later wealth came from the ‘silver of the sea’ – herring. Its long, sheltering fjord gave it an advantage over other fishing villages, and it grew into the largest and most prosperous town in east Iceland. Most of the beautiful and unique wooden buildings here were built by Norwegian merchants, attracted by the rich pickings of the herring industry.
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BORGARFJÖRÐUR TO SEYÐISFJÖRÐUR HIKE
Wildly wonderful and unexplored, the rugged nature between Borgarfjörður and Seyðisfjörður makes for one of the best multiday summer hikes in the region. To plan your journey, pick up the widely available Gönguleiðir á Austurlandi #1 map, or contact Hafþor ( 863 2320; groups Ikr20,000 per day) if you’re looking for a guide.
On Day 1 start at Ölduhamar, just 2km outside the township of Borgarfjörður Eystri, and venture up into the mountains along the Brúnavíkurskarð pass (trail #19 on the map). Turn south (along trail #27) at emergency hut in Brúnavík, passing beautiful Kerlingfjall further on. After your six-to-seven-hour hike (15km), settle in for the night at the outfitted farmhouse/campsite in Breiðavík.
Day 2 features another stunning six or seven hours of hiking (13km along trail #30). You’ll first walk through the grassy leas below Hvítafjall, then you’ll link up with the 4WD track heading south to the Húsavík hut, where you’ll spend the second night. The land between Breiðavík and Húsavík is infested with hidden people – the elf sheriff lives at Sólarfjall and the elf bishop lives at Blábjörg further south along the coast.
Another 13km of trails are tackled on Day 3 (six to seven hours along trail #37) as the path reunites with the sea at silent Loðmundarfjörður. The 4WD track ends at the new ‘luxury hut’ on the Norðdalsá river delta at the uppermost point of the fjord.
The last day, Day 4, links Loðmundarfjörður to Seyðisfjörður (trail #41). At the highest point of the mountain pass you’ll find a log book signed by previous hikers. As you venture down into Seyðisfjörður you’ll be treated to a watery fanfare of gushing chutes.
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During WWII Seyðisfjörður was a base for British and American forces. The only attack was on an oil tanker that was bombed by three German warplanes. The bombs missed their target, but one exploded so near that the ship sank to the bottom, where it remains today.
Seyðisfjörður’s steep-sided valley has made it prone to avalanches. In 1885 an avalanche from Bjólfur killed 24 people and pushed several houses straight into the fjord. A more recent avalanche in 1996 flattened a local factory, but no lives were lost. The avalanche monument near the church is made from twisted girders from the factory, painted white and erected as they were found.
Information
The helpful tourist information centre ( 472 1551; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri May-Sep), in the modern ferry terminal