Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [221]
There’s a Landsbanki Íslands ( 470 3040; Hafnargata 2) with an ATM, which can get crowded when the ferry arrives.
In summer there’s free internet access at Skaftfell Cultural Centre.
Sights
Seyðisfjörður is stuffed with 19th-century timber buildings, brought in kit form from Norway: read all about them in the brochure Historic Seyðisfjörður, available at the tourist office.
Several historical buildings have been transformed into cosy ateliers where local artisans work on various projects. Some studios sell knits, others sell art. A quick loop around town will reveal half a dozen places to drop some serious krónur. Also worth a look is the gallery space above the restaurant-cum-chill-out-spot at the Skaftfell Cultural Centre. Exhibits change regularly – during our visit we saw a surprisingly intriguing installation of dirt collected from parks around the world.
For insight into the town’s fishing and telecommunications history, there’s a worthwhile technical museum, Tækniminjasafn Austurlands ( 472 1596; Hafnargata 44; adult/under 18yr Ikr500/free; 11am-5pm daily Jun–mid-Sep, 1-4pm Mon-Fri mid-Sep–May). It’s housed in two buildings on Hafnargata: the impressive 1894 home of ship owner Otto Wathne, and a workshop from 1907. Seyðisfjörður was at the cutting edge of Icelandic technology in the 19th century – the first submarine telephone cable linking Iceland with Europe was brought ashore here in 1906. The museum charts this history with displays of old machinery, photographs, and a re-creation of the original telegraph station, foundry and machine shop.
The first high-voltage electricity in Iceland came from the Fjarðarsel hydroelectric power station ( 472 1122; www.fjardarsel.is), which opened in 1913. The power station, a 15-minute walk upriver from town, is still in operation; its small electricity museum opens on request.
Activities
The hills above Seyðisfjörður are the perfect spot for hiking neophytes. Start by walking up the road past the HI hostel to where a rough 4WD track takes off up the glacial valley to your left. The track peters out after a few hundred metres, but keep walking uphill, along the left side of the Vestdalsá river. After a couple of hours and several tiers of glorious waterfalls, you’ll arrive at a small lake, Vestdalsvatn, which remains frozen most of the year. From the lake you can continue left over the tundra or return down the tiered rows of gushing waterfalls from where you came.
For an unearthly experience, stop by Hótel Aldan to sign up for a guided night kayaking trip ( 865 3741; www.iceland-tour.com; Jun-Aug) around the tranquil lagoon (two hours, Ikr2500) with Hlynur Oddssen, a Robert Redfort-esque character who spends his summers around town. Tailor-made tours are quite common – ask about daylong paddles (Ikr10,000) out to Skálanes. Hlynur also takes mountain-bike tours (Ikr2000 for a two-hour trip), including a four-hour trip out to the Brimnes lighthouse (Ikr4000). Or, you can hire bikes and take off on your own (Ikr1500/2000 per half/full day).
Seyðisfjörður’s indoor swimming pool ( 472 1414; Suðurgata 5; adult/child Ikr300/150; 7-9am & 5-9pm Mon-Fri, noon-4pm Sat & Sun) has a sauna and hot pots.
In winter there’s downhill and also cross-country skiing at the Stafdalur ski area, 9km from Seyðisfjörður on the road to Egilsstaðir – contact the tourist office for details.
Festivals & Events
Seyðisfjörður is highly regarded in east Iceland as an artistic centre. The town’s cultural festival Á Seyði runs from mid-June to mid-August, offering plenty of exhibitions, workshops and music. An important part of the festival is the program of jazz, classical- and folk-music concerts, held on Wednesday evenings in the pretty Blue Church (Bláa Kirkjan; Ránargata) at 8.30pm from late June to mid-August. If you’re leaving on the Thursday ferry, this is a great way to spend your final night in Iceland.
Sleeping
Campsite ( 861 3097; ferdamenning@sfk.is;