Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [222]
Seyðisfjörður HI Hostel (Hafaldan; 472 1410; www.hostel.is; Ránargata 9; sb member/nonmember Ikr2300/2800, d member/nonmember Ikr6200/7200; ) Nothing puts a smile on our face more than a funky hostelry, but alas, we simply weren’t impressed by Seyðisfjörður’s contribution to the HI hostel chain. We were hoping for a backpacker bohemia, and although the comfy common space in the main building has pretty harbour views, we thought the staff curt and the bedrooms wholly underwhelming. The annexe at Suðurgata 8 is a bit more central and used to be the old hospital, but you’d never guess – Indian hangings and funky furniture make it less sterile.
Hótel Aldan ( 472 1277; www.hotelaldan.com; Norðurgata 2) The wonderfully friendly hotel is shared across three old wooden buildings. Reception and the bar-restaurant (where breakfast is served) are at the Norðurgata location. The Snæfell location (in the old post office at Austurvegur 3) is a creaky, characterful three-storey place with the cheapest rooms (singles/doubles/triples Ikr11,900/15,900/17,900), fresh white paintwork, draped muslin curtains and Indian bedspreads to add a splash of colour. The Old Bank location (at Oddagata 6) houses a truly gorgeous boutique guest house with all mod-cons. Its luxurious rooms (singles/doubles/triples Ikr13,900/18,900/22,900) are bright, spacious and furnished with antiques, and beds are snuggled under hand-embroidered bedspreads. The triple rooms have wicked little alcoves. Prices are reduced by Ikr2000 in winter.
Eating
Eating establishments open early on Wed-nesdays to accommodate ferry passengers.
Skaftfell Cultural Centre ( 472 1632; Austurvegur 42; mains Ikr1400-2800; noon-11pm summer, cultural events only winter; ) This arty bistro-bar is the kinda place where you can chill out and doodle in your journal while Groove Armada wafts through the air. There’s free internet and you can choose from plenty of daily dish specials. If we lived in Seyðisfjörður, we’d probably come here everyday.
Hótel Aldan ( 472 1277; Norðurgata 2; mains Ikr3400-4100; 7am-10pm mid-May–mid-Sep) Coffee and light meals are served all day. In the evening, damask tablecloths, crystal wine glasses and flickering candles pretty-up the tables, and the menu features traditional Icelandic ingredients (lamb, lobster, reindeer, fish) served with contemporary salads and sauces. The bar fairly buzzes when the boat comes in. Reservations are advised.
Also worth a look is the Mini Ciné ( 845 4883; Austurvegur; variable), which, as the name suggests, is a casual place to kick back and catch a flick. When films aren’t being shown you can grab a coffee and a light meal. The snack bar ( 472 1700; Hafnargata 2; noon-9pm) at the Shell petrol station does hot dogs and sandwiches, as well as cooked lunch/dinner mains – usually something filling and Icelandic, such as fish soup or meatballs. The Samkaup-Strax supermarket ( 472 1201; Vesturvegur 1; closed Sun) is opposite the petrol station, and there’s also a Vín Búð ( 472 1191; Hafnargata 2a; 5-6pm Mon-Thu, 4-6pm Fri) alcohol shop.
Getting There & Away
The Smyril Line car ferry ( 472 1111; www.smyril-line.com) Norröna sails year-round to Seyðisfjörður from Denmark and the Faeroes. From mid-June to August it sails into town at 9am on Thursday, departing for Scandinavia at 1pm the same afternoon; from mid-April to mid-June (and for the month of September as well) the boat pulls in at 9am on Tuesday, leaving the following day at 10pm. Check-in is at least one hour before departure. Click here, or check the website for more info.
Click here for bus details.
Return to beginning of chapter
AROUND SEYÐISFJÖRÐUR
The remote farm Skálanes ( 690 6966, 861 7008; www.skalanes.com; mid-May–mid-Sep, by arrangement rest of the yr), about 19km east of Seyðisfjörður, is a wonderful nature reserve and heritage field centre. The owner has an insatiable passion