Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [223]
A variety of stay-over packages are available to travellers, from all-inclusive two-day visits (Ikr31,500) and 4WD excursions (Ikr25,000 per day) to an in-depth five-day experience geared towards true nature lovers (Ikr78,500). B&B accommodation in beautifully refurbished rooms goes for Ikr6500 per night.
Getting to Skálanes is an adventure in itself. You could walk all the way from Seyðisfjörður; you could get there on a mountain bike; in a normal car you can drive 13km along the track until you get to the river, then walk the last bit (which works out to be around 4km); in a 4WD you can drive the whole way there (just be careful as you ford the river!); or you can have the centre pick you up from Seyðisfjörður (Ikr6000 per vehicle).
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MJÓIFJÖRÐUR
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The next fjord south of Seyðisfjörður is Mjóifjörður, flanked by spectacular cliffs and rows of cascading waterfalls. The road leading into the fjord (Rte 953) pushes the limits of a 2WD (we blew a tyre here), but once you make it in you’ll be surrounded by lush hills peppered with fascinating ruins and schools of farmed fish leaping out of the frigid fjord water. A rusted herring vessel sits beached – like a giant ochre carcass – as you tumble down into the fjord basin. A reminder of the long-gone herring boom, the vessel was responsible for hauling the unused bits of herring to the dump in Neskaupstaður. Also of interest are the rusting leftovers of the early-20th-century Norwegian whaling station at Asknes (accessible by 4WD only) and the ruined Dalatangi light, Iceland’s first lighthouse. The new lighthouse next door has wonderful art exhibitions during summer (open from 1pm to 5pm Thursday to Sunday).
On the north side of the fjord at Brekkuþorp, Sólbrekka ( 476 0020; mjoi@simnet.is; sb Ikr3000, cottages Ikr9000; closed Dec & Jan) is the one and only place to stay around here and it’s a welcome sight for hikers. There’s an old schoolhouse near the sea, but the real treat lies up the hill – two beautiful pine cottages built for four people each. There’s also a little afternoon cafe (1-5pm) open from July to mid-August. The owners also offer fishing excursions (Ikr1500 per person).
There’s some brilliant hiking around Mjóifjörður. The folks at Sólbrekka can ferry you across the fjord from where it’s a beautiful four-hour hike to Neskaupstaður, or you can climb over northern mountains to reach Seyðisfjörður on a six-hour trek. Click here to reach Neskaupstaður by sea.
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REYÐARFJÖRÐUR
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In the Prettiest Fjord pageant Reyðarfjörður could never quite manage to take home the sash and crown. It’s a relatively new settlement, which only came into existence – as a trading port – in the 20th century. More recently however, Reyðarfjörður did get the attention it had been looking for when Alcoa installed a giant 2km-long aluminium smelter just beyond the town along the fjord. Conservationists were up in arms, but the infusion of foreign workers has added a small splash of international flavour in Reyðarfjörður and the surrounding towns.
Sights & Activities
During WWII around 3000 Allied soldiers – about 10 times the local population – were based in Reyðarfjörður. At the top end of Heiðarvegur you’ll find the Icelandic Wartime Museum ( 470 9063; www.fjardabyggd.is; Spítalakampur; adult/under 18yr Ikr500/free; 1-6pm Jun-Aug), which details these strange few years. The building is surrounded by mines, Jeeps and aeroplane propellers, and holds other war relics. Photographs and tableaux provide a good background to Iceland’s wartime involvement. The museum is tucked behind a rusting set of army barracks, built as part of a hospital