Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [226]
As with most towns in the Eastfjords, Neskaupstaður began life as a 19th-century trading centre and prospered during the herring boom in the early 20th century. Its future was assured by the building of the biggest fish-processing and freezing plant in Iceland, Síldarvinnslan (SNV), at the head of the fjord.
Orientation & Information
Like other towns in the Eastfjords, Neskaupstaður is rather long and thin as it stretches out on the north side of the fjord. After passing Hótel Capitanó, you’ll find most of the town’s services (petrol station, bank etc) clustered along the fjord side of the road. Nesbær (opposite), the information point, is just beyond the bright-red Museum House; we found the staff at Frú Lú Lú (opposite) to be a font of local knowledge. If you’re looking for the campsite, it’s high above the town at the avalanche barriers (worth a visit for the great views).
Sights & Activities
MUSEUM HOUSE
Neskaupstaður’s three small museums are clustered together in one bright-red warehouse, known as Museum House ( 470 9063, 470 9000; Egilsbraut 2; per museum adult/under 18yr Ikr500/free; 1-5pm Jun-Aug), by the harbour. Perhaps the most interesting part is the art gallery Tryggvasafn, which showcases a collection of striking paintings by prominent modern artist Tryggvi Ólafsson (1940–), who was born in Neskaupstaður. His colourful abstracts, some of which hang in national galleries in Reykjavík, Sweden and Denmark, depict Icelandic scenes and are visually quite striking.
The East Iceland Museum of Natural History has a big collection of local stones (including spar from the Helgustaðir mine), plus an array of stuffed animals, birds, fish and pinned insects. The Jósafat Hinriksson Maritime Museum is one man’s collection of artefacts relating to the sea.
WALKING & HIKING
At the eastern end of town where the road runs out is the nature reserve Folksvangur Neskaupstaðar – perfect for short strolls. Various paths run through long grass, over tiny wooden bridges, and past boulders, peat pits, cliffs and the rushing sea. There are plenty of puffins to watch, as well as gulls and ravens.
For serious hikers, a rewarding route will take you up Goðaborg (1132m) from the farm Kirkjuból, 8km west of town. From the summit you can also descend into Mjóifjörður, the next fjord to the north; allow six hours and, due to late snows at higher altitudes, attempt it only at the height of summer.
A more difficult walk is from Oddsskarð along the ridges eastward to the lonely fjords Hellisfjörður and Viðfjörður. If you want to spend the night in Viðfjörður, you can test your wits by staying in the basement bunks at the abandoned farm, known to be one of the most haunted places in Iceland.
The dramatic Gerpir cliffs, Iceland’s easternmost point, can be reached with difficulty; the only way to visit this beautiful place is on foot. To work out a route, use the small Neskaupstaður Country park brochure (available at Nesbær – opposite – for free) or the Gönguleiðir á Fjarðalsóðum (Ikr800 – you’ll have to ask around for this one).
BOAT TRIPS
From June to mid-September Fjarðaferðir ( 477 1710; www.fjardafedir.is; adult/child Ikr1800/900) runs a scenic boat cruise to Mjóifjörður on Fridays and Mondays at 10.30am and 5pm (Mondays and Thursdays in winter pending interest). Often the guest house in Mjóifjörður serves white wine and shellfish on arrival. Sightseeing tours (two hours, Ikr4900) and fishing trips around Norðfjörður are also possible.
KAYAKING
There’s no better way to explore the fjords than in a kayak. The friendly fellas at Kaj Kayak Club (Kayakklúbburinn Kaj; 863 9939; www.123.is/kaj; Kirkjufjara) offer guided two-hour trips (Ikr4000 per person) around Norðfjörður, exploring sea caves and resident bird life. Outings are on request; in midsummer ask about the midnight kayaking trip. The clubhouse is located across the street from Frú Lú Lú.
HORSE RIDING
You’ll hear nothing but rave reviews about the horse stables at Skorrahestar ( 477 1736; www.123.is/skorrahestar; Skorrastaður), situated high in the bluffs.
Festivals