Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [227]
A metal and punk mayhem festival, Eistnaflug (www.eistnaflug.is), which could be translated as ‘Flight of Testicles’, is held every summer in town on the second weekend in July. Every self-respecting rockin’ band shows up, if not to play then to listen and drink!
Sleeping
Campsite ( 470 9000) This brand new site, with electricity and hot showers, overlooks the town and fjord from the Drangagil avalanche barrier. It’s near the hospital – in case you get lost on the way (like we did).
Tónspil ( 477 1580; www.tonspil.is; Hafnarbraut 22; sb Ikr2800, s/d Ikr3900/6900) Like an extra in the film High Fidelity, you need to ask the dude in the music shop about the rooms above! Which are very, very simple (cork floor, white ply wardrobe, bed), but there’s a handy TV room/kitchen area with microwave and hotplates. There’s also a ‘no smoking’ sign posted, but we’re pretty sure they’re not talking about cigarettes… The music shop is open from 10am to 6pm Mondays to Saturdays.
Hótel Capitanó ( 477 1800; www.hotelcapitano.is; Hafnarbraut 50; sb/s/d Ikr3500/8900/12,900) The bright-blue corrugated iron building doesn’t look like much, but all rooms have attached bathrooms and some of the doubles are spacious and well appointed. Modern art by celebrated local artist Tryggvi Ólafsson adorns the walls. An authentic Thai buffet (Ikr1750) is often served on weekend evenings. We recommend calling ahead – there was talk the hotel might be the next victim in the economic recession.
Hótel Edda ( 444 4860; www.hoteledda.is; Nesgata 40; s/d Ikr14,100/17,600; early Jun–mid-Aug) On the waterfront at the eastern end of town, this summer hotel has brilliant views but predictable, overpriced rooms. Although some may cringe at the chain name, Hótel Edda prides itself on providing top-notch cuisine, and the in-house restaurant is no exception. Dine on a short list of tasty fish while staring out over the fjord.
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EASTER SEALS
The Paskahellir (Easter Cave) in Viðfjörður earns its name from an old local legend. In the Eastfjords it’s commonly believed that at Easter all seals shed their skin and walk the earth as humans. One year, a lonely fisherman at Viðfjörður took a seal in as his wife while she roamed around in human form. He locked her skin in a coffin and hid it in the cave. After bearing seven children, she took the key to the coffin, retrieved her skin and returned to the sea where her seven seal children were waiting. The coffin now sits in Frú Lú Lú (below) and the cave can be seen on the Norðfjörður–Mjóifjörður cruise (opposite.)
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Eating
Nesbær (Litla Kaffihúsið; 477 1115; Egilsbraut 5; lunch Ikr850; 9am-6pm Mon-Wed & Fri, to 10.30pm Thu, 10am-6pm Sat, 1-5pm Sun; ) This cafe–bakery–knick-knack shop has a quintessential small-town vibe and offers yummy cakes, sandwiches and soup. Nesbær doubles as the town’s information point, offering a few tattered brochures.
Frú Lú Lú ( 865 5868; Egilsbraut 19; lunch Ikr990, tapas dinner Ikr1990; 11am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; ) We’re stingy with our ‘our pick’ symbols – but this place deserves three. We ate here twice – the first time we came for an early lunch of organic soup and salad, and ended up chatting and dining with the staff and other customers until well past 11pm. Then, when we came back for seconds, we randomly had our fortune read by a celebrity psychic and savoured a buffet of Brazilian-inspired dishes. On a normal night (if there are any here) expect tailor-made tapas dinner specials and scrumptious double lattes served in oversized mugs. There’s something bizarrely enchanting about this antique-clad joint, and it’s well worth paying a visit to see what kind of magic unfolds for you…
Standard fast-food fare can be found at Egilsbúð ( 476 1313; Egilsbraut 1; 11am-midnight Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat) – the local community centre – or at the Ólís petrol station ( 477 1500; Hafnarbraut 19). Samkaup-Úrval ( 477 1301; Hafnarbraut 13; 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, noon-6pm Sat & Sun) and Nesbakki supermarkets ( 477 1609; Bakkavegur 3; 10am-7pm) are at the top of the