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By Root 1687 0

Kirkjubær ( 892 3319, 846 0032; www.simnet.is/brigiral; Fjarðarbraut 37a; sb Ikr2500), one of the most memorable lodging options in the Eastfjords, if not the whole country. This tiny old church dates from 1925 but is now in private hands and has been renovated into a cute one-room hostel. The pulpit and altar are still there, and some of the pews are now part of the furniture. There’s a full kitchen and bathroom, and the beds (mostly just mattresses) are on the upper mezzanine level. It supposedly sleeps 10, but that would be pretty cosy! The owners live in the yellow house just below the church at Skolúbraut 1 – pop in or you can call the number on the door and they’ll tell you where to find the key. It’s also worth asking about their boat/fishing trips out onto the fjord.

For other lodging options, check out the crowded corkboard at the entrance to Brekkan ( 475 8939; Fjarðarbraut 44; snacks Ikr650-1950; 9am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat), the local chow house. It’s the only sit-down place in town and makes absolutely no effort with the decor – but we have to admit the grease-laden pizza was pretty darn good. There’s a stack of groceries in the back.

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BREIÐDALSVÍK

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Fishing village Breiðdalsvík is beautifully sited at the end of Iceland’s broadest valley, Breiðdalur. It’s a very quiet place – more a base for walking in the nearby hills and fishing the rivers and lakes than an attraction in itself. The biggest excitement of the year is the Austfjarðatröllið strong-man competition in mid-August.

Located in the centre of ‘town’ (and we’re using that term lightly here), Hótel Bláfell ( 475 6770; www.hotelblafell.is; Sólvellir 14; s/d incl breakfast Ikr9900/14,400 Jun-early Sep, discounts mid-Sep–May) has freshly furnished rooms and friendly new owners. Don’t be put off by the cafeteria-style decor, the restaurant (mains from Ikr1200) here is quite good. Go for the local favourites – hearty meat- or fish-soup. The yummy fish stew is only served for lunch, but if you ask nicely they’ll whip it up at dinner. Tighter budgets can pitch a tent at the free campsite out the back.

Outside Breiðdalsvík, on Rte 96 heading back towards Stöðvarfjörður, Café Margret ( 475 6625; s/d Ikr9900/15,900 Jun–mid-Sep, Ikr4900/7500 mid-Sep–May) is a beautiful boutique guest house built from Finnish pine. Its four precious rooms are stuffed with quaint antiques and quilts. The attached cafe (open 8am to 11pm June to mid-September, 10am to 8pm mid-September to May) is pricey, but it provides a welcome respite from hot dogs. All in all, the rooms get a ‘10’, the food a ‘6’ and the service gets a ‘3’.

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BREIÐDALSVÍK TO DJÚPIVOGUR

Breiðdalur

As the Ring Road returns to the coast it passes through the lovely Breiðdalur valley, nestled beneath colourful rhyolite peaks. Near the head of the valley you may see reindeer. At the abandoned farm Jórvík a forestry reserve harbours native birch and aspen.

Once a school, Hótel Staðarborg ( 475 6760; www.stadarborg.is; sb/s/d Ikr4500/12,500/28,000 May-Sep) has neat, modern rooms with proper shutters to keep out that midnight sun! Breakfast is included with made-up beds, and dinner (Ikr4500) is available on request. You can hire horses to explore Breiðdalur or fish in the neighbouring lake. Staðarborg is 6km west of Breiðdalsvík on the Ring Road, near the turn-off to Rte 964.

Berufjörður

South of Breiðdalur along the Ring Road is Berufjörður, a longish, steep-sided fjord flanked by rhyolite peaks. The southwestern shore is dominated by the obtrusive, pyramid-shaped mountain Búlandstindur, which rises 1068m above the water. The westernmost ridge is known as Goðaborg or ‘God’s rock’. When Iceland officially converted to Christianity in 1000, locals are said to have carried their pagan images to the top of this mountain and thrown them off the cliff.

Around Berufjörður are several historical walking routes through the steeply rugged terrain. The best known of these climbs is from Berufjörður, the farm at the head of the fjord, and crosses