Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [230]
Berunes HI Hostel ( 478 8988, 869 7227; www.simnet.is/berunes; sites per person Ikr1000, sb Ikr2100-3000, s/d Ikr4100/5900, cottages from Ikr11,500; Apr-Sep; ) is located on a 100-year-old farm with ‘a good spirit’, according to the owner. This wonderfully wobbly hostel/guest house is one of our all-time favourites. There’s space for campers; delightful little rooms and alcoves; a kitchen and lounge with books in the old farmhouse; plus Berunes boasts two self-contained family apartments and a separate cottage. Join the owners in the bright dining room for breakfast (Ikr1000), which includes delicious homemade pancakes. Musicians are welcome to play the organ in the neighbouring 19th-century church. Nonmembers are charged Ikr500 extra, and linen costs Ikr800. The hostel is 25km along the Ring Road south of Breiðdalsvík.
If Berunes is full, try Eyjólfsstaðir ( 478 8137; sites per person Ikr500, sb Ikr2500) tucked 2km off the Ring Road in the secluded Fossá valley. There are kitchen facilities, a bathroom and a lounge in basic rooms, but the building feels rather threadbare.
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DJÚPIVOGUR
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This friendly little fishing village, at the mouth of Berufjörður, gives summer visitors a flowery welcome. Its neat historic buildings, museum and small, colourful harbour are worth a look, and it has a couple of nice eating places; but the main reason to visit is to catch the boat to Papey island Click here.
Djúpivogur (dyoo-pi-vor) is actually the oldest port in the Eastfjords – it’s been around since the 16th century when German merchants brought goods to trade. The last major excitement was in 162: pirates from North Africa rowed ashore, plundering the village and nearby farms, and carrying away dozens of slaves.
Information
The friendly tourist information centre ( 478 8220; langabud@langabud.is; 10am-6pm Jun–mid-Sep, to 4pm 15-31 May) is in the historic rust-coloured building, LangabúÐ, alongside the harbour.
The village also has a bank (there’s an ATM in Við Voginn cafe), a post office and a swimming pool.
Sights & Activities
Some of the town’s lovely wooden buildings date from the late 19th century. The oldest building, the long bright-red Langabúð, is a harbourside log warehouse dating from 1790, which now houses the tourist office, a coffee shop and an unusual local museum ( 10am-6pm Jun–mid-Sep, to 4pm mid-May–late May; adult/child Ikr500/300). Downstairs is a collection of works by renowned sculptor Rikarður Jónsson (1888–1977). They range from lifelike busts of worthy Icelanders to mermaid-decorated mirrors and reliefs depicting saga characters. Rikarður also championed the Icelandic woodcarving typeface, whose letters are possibly descended from runes – look out for this strangely illegible alphabet in his work. Upstairs, in the tar-smelling attic, is a collection of local-history artefacts.
The Djúpivogur Peninsula is compact and ideal for short hikes from town. A lovely walk is to Álfkirkja on the rock formation Rakkaberg, 500m north of town. The indoor swimming pool ( 478 8999; Varða 4; adult/child Ikr350/150; 7am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun Jun-Aug, 7am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm Sat & Sun Sep-May), behind Hótel FramtíÐ, is a good place to unwind after hiking.
If you have a li’l extra time, it’s worth giving Gusta a ring to see if you can swing by her studio, Gusta Design ( 863 1475; www.gustadesign.is). A local fashion designer, she creates unique accessories from reindeer skins and fish scales.
Sleeping & Eating
Campsite ( 478 8887; sites per person Ikr850) Situated just behind the Við Voginn shop, this site is run by Hótel FramtíÐ, so cough up your pennies at the reception there. The campsite has showers and cooking facilities.
Hótel Framtíð ( 478 8887; www.simnet.is/framtid; Vogaland 4; sb s/d Ikr3850/6800, s/d without bathroom Ikr8400/10,400, with bathroom Ikr13,400/17,100; ) This friendly hotel by the harbour is impressive for a village of this size. Although it’s been around for a while (the building was brought