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in pieces from Copenhagen in 1905), a newer wing (built in 1999) adds modern fixtures to the mix. Four summer houses (Ikr17,000) are also available for rent. The menu at the in-house restaurant (mains cost Ikr3180 to Ikr4450; open from noon to 2pm and 6pm to 9pm) is short and sweet, and reads like a love poem to your tastebuds: succulent seafood soup and fresh-from-the-sea lobster. You can order a takeaway filter coffee if you need a quick buzz before tackling the next stretch of highway.

LangabúÐ Café (lunch Ikr1200; 10am-6pm Jun–mid-Sep, 10am-4pm mid-May–late May) A good option for lunch, this cafe has a suitably old-world atmosphere with views over the harbour, and serves cakes, soup and homemade bread. It can get very crowded with coach parties.

Við Voginn ( 478 8860; Vogaland 2; mains from Ikr950; 9am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat & Sun) A fast-food joint with an attached supermarket, Við Voginn is popular with locals and tourists on the run.

On the main road into town you’ll find a Samkaup-Strax supermarket (Búland 2; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat, noon-4pm Sun) with a Vin Búð ( 5-6pm Mon-Thu, 4-6pm Fri) attached.

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AROUND DJÚPIVOGUR

The name of lovely offshore island Papey (Friars’ Island) suggests it was once a hermitage for the Irish monks who may have briefly inhabited Iceland before fleeing upon the arrival of the Norse. This small and tranquil island was once a farm, but it’s presently inhabited only by seals and nesting seabirds. Other highlights include the Kastali, home to the local hidden people; the Hellisbjarg lighthouse, which dates from 1922; Iceland’s oldest and smallest wooden church, built in 1805; and the wind-battered ruins of an apartment house from the early 20th century. Camping is not allowed on the island.

From June to August Papeyjarferðir ( 478 8119, 659 1469; papey@djupivogur.is; adult/7-12yr Ikr6000/3000) runs four-hour tours to the island. Weather and numbers permitting (minimum four people), tours depart Djúpivogur harbour at 1pm daily, returning at 5pm. When things are really busy, there’s also a 3pm tour. In fine weather this is a truly magical outing. Bring proper footwear – the island is boggy and wet year-round.

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Southeast Iceland

* * *

FJALLABAK NATURE RESERVE

FJALLABAK ROUTE

LANDMANNALAUGAR

LANDMANNALAUGAR TO ÞÓRSMÖRK

LANDMANNALAUGAR TO ELDGJÁ

ELDGJÁ

SOUTHERN VATNAJÖKULL

KIRKJUBÆJARKLAUSTUR

AROUND KIRKJUBÆJARKLAUSTUR

LAKAGÍGAR

THE SANDAR

SKAFTAFELL (VATNAJÖKULL NATIONAL PARK – SOUTH)

SKAFTAFELL TO HÖFN

HÖFN

LÓNSÖRÆFI

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

TOURS

SLEEPING

GETTING THERE & AWAY

* * *

Iceland’s southeast is a kingdom made for trolls and ice giants, rather than creatures of warm flesh and blood. Mighty Vatnajökull, the largest ice cap outside the poles, dominates the region. Even casual visitors travelling along the Ring Road will be awestruck by its huge rivers of frozen ice pouring down steep-sided valleys towards the sea. The glacial lagoon Jökulsárlón, at the foot of the ice cap, is a photographer’s paradise – wind and water sculpt its chilly-blue icebergs into fantastical shapes.

A terrible desert of dark glacial sand unrolls on the southern side of the Ring Road. The damage is caused by the Grímsvötn and Öræfi volcanoes, trapped beneath Vatnajökull. When they blow, huge areas of the ice cap melt, sending powerful rock-filled rivers smashing onto the coast. The most recent jökulhlaup (glacial flood) was only a decade or so ago.

Further inland is the epicentre of Iceland’s worst eruption. In the late 18th century, the Lakagígar fissure erupted in a 30km-long sheet of flame and ash, blotting out the sun and causing famine across the northern hemisphere. Today such apocalyptic fire and darkness seem far away; the fragile lava craters are covered in soft green moss and the only sound is the wind. With desolation all around, it’s not surprising that Skaftafell, the greenest part of Vatnajökull National Park, is a popular spot. This sheltered enclave between the glaciers and