Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [233]
There’s no petrol at Landmannalaugar. The nearest petrol pumps are 40km north at Hrauneyjar (close to the beginning of the F208), and 90km southeast at Kirkjubæjarklaustur, but to be on the safe side you should put in enough fuel to get you all the way back to Hella.
Activities
HOT SPRINGS
Just 200m from the Landmannalaugar hut, both hot and cold water flow out from beneath Laugahraun and combine in a natural pool to form the most ideal hot bath imaginable.
HORSE RIDING
Several companies offer horse treks to Landmannalaugar – Click here.
HIKING
Laugahraun, the convoluted lava field behind the Landmannalaugar hut, offers vast scope for exploration. Across it, the slopes of Iceland’s most colourful mountain, rainbow-streaked Brennisteinsalda, are punctuated by steaming vents and sulphur deposits. Climb to the summit for a good view across the rugged and variegated landscape (it’s a 7km round-trip from Landmannalaugar).
From Brennisteinsalda it’s another 90 minutes along the Þórsmörk route to the impressive Stórihver geothermal field.
The blue lake Frostastaðavatn lies behind the rhyolite ridge immediately north of the Landmannalaugar hut. Walk over the ridge and you’ll be rewarded with far-ranging views as well as close-ups of the interesting rock formations and moss-covered lava flows flanking the lake. If you walk at least one way on the road and spend some time exploring around the lake, the return trip takes two to three hours.
A fine day-hike from Landmannalaugar is to the ironically named Ljótipollur (Ugly Puddle), an incredible red crater filled with bright-blue water. Oddly enough, although it was formed by a volcanic explosion, its lake is rich in trout. That intense, fiery red comes from iron-ore deposits. You’ll come across all kinds of scenery on the way to the Puddle, from tephra desert and lava flow to marsh and braided glacial valleys. To get there you can climb over the 786m-high peak Norðurnámur (well worthwhile) or just traverse its western base to emerge on the Ljótipollur road (a 10km to 12km return trip, depending on the route). A number of routes ascend to the crater rim, but the most interesting is the footpath that climbs its southernmost slope. If you walk all the way around the crater rim, it’s an 18km hike that will take you the better part of a day.
Another good day walk from Land-mannalaugar is around the peak Tjörvafell and the crater lake Hnausapollur (also known as Bláhylur).
Sleeping
Because the whole Fjallabak area is a protected nature reserve, wild camping is not allowed.
Landmannalaugar hut ( 863 1175; sb Ikr3300; Jul-Sep), run by Ferðafélag Íslands, accommodates 75 people, and books up quickly with tour groups and club members. Otherwise there’s a campsite (sites per person Ikr900) with toilet and shower facilities.
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LANDMANNALAUGAR TO ÞÓRSMÖRK
The harsh, otherworldly beauty of the Landmannalaugar to þórsmörk route makes it one of the finest and most popular hikes in Iceland. See the boxed text, for details of the walk.
Several huts along the Landmannalaugar–þórsmörk route are owned and maintained by Ferðafélag Íslands ( 568 2533; www.fi.is). All have camping areas (per person Ikr900), although these tend to be exposed, and with sandy ground that can make it difficult to keep your tent pegged down. Book and pay for hut space well in advance (at least two or three months); otherwise bring a tent.
Hut etiquette requires travellers to clean up after themselves. You need to carry your rubbish out with you from the Hrafntinnusker and Emstrur huts. It’s also a good idea to bring a pair of slippers with you so that you can leave your wet hiking boots outside and keep the huts clean!
The following huts are listed from north to south:
Landmannalaugar ( 863 1175; N 63°59.600’, W 19°03.660’; per person Ikr3300; Jul-Sep) Holds 75 people. It has a kitchen, shower and a warden from July to September.
Hrafntinnusker (Höskuldsskáli; N 63°56.014’, W 19°10.109