Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [234]
Álftavatn (N 63°51.470’, W 19°13.640’; per person Ikr3300) Two huts holding 58 people. Each hut has a kitchen and shower, and a warden from June to August.
Hvanngil (N 64°50.026’, W 19°12.507’; per person Ikr3300) This hut is on an alternative path, 5km south of Álftavatn. It holds 60 people, and has a kitchen and shower.
Emstrur (Botnar) (N 63°45.980’, W 19°22.480’; per person Ikr3300) Two huts holding 40 people. There is a kitchen and shower, and warden from June to August.
Þórsmörk (Skagfjörðsskáli; mid-May–Sep 893 1191; N 63°40.960’, W 19°30.890’; per person Ikr3300) Holds 75 people. It has a kitchen, shower and shop, and a warden from mid-May to September.
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LANDMANNALAUGAR TO ELDGJÁ
East of Landmannalaugar, the F208 leaves Fjallabak Reserve and skirts the river Tungnaá as it flows past the Norðurnámshraun lava field.
After dropping into Jökuldalur the road deteriorates into a valley route along a riverbed and effectively becomes a 10km-long ford interspersed with jaunts across the odd sandbar or late snowfield. When it climbs out of the valley it ascends the tuff mountain Hörðubreið, from where there are superb views across the lowlands to the south.
Just west of the Herðubreið lookout, a rough 4WD road heads 25km northeast to the blue lake Langisjór. On the far side of the lake lie the astonishing green mountains of Fögrufjöll (1090m), and beyond them is the black-sand outwash plain of the glacial river Skaftá.
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LANDMANNALAUGAR TO ÞÓRSMÖRK HIKE
The hike from Landmannalaugar to Þórsmörk – known as the Laugarvegurinn (Hot Spring Rd) – is one of the great walks of the world. The best map of the route is Þórsmörk-Landmannalaugar 1:100,000. In addition, there’s a good booklet called The Laugavegur Hiking Trail by Leifur Þorsteinsson and Guðjón Magnússon (Ikr1900), which describes sights and side trips. It can be purchased from Ferðafélag Íslands (www.fi.is).
In high season the hike can be completed in four days by anyone in reasonable physical condition. Many people do it independently, but Útivist, Ferðafélag Íslands and the Icelandic Mountain Guides all offer organised trips (Click here), with the option of having your bags carried for you.
The track is usually passable for casual hikers from mid-July through to mid-September. Early in the season (early to mid-July) you may need an ice axe for assistance on steeper slopes. The track positively bustles in July and August, so consider walking it in early September, when you should have crisp weather and possibly a glimpse of the northern lights from near-empty huts. At that time of year, however, some snow bridges across ravines may have collapsed, necessitating detours.
At any time of year the Landmannalaugar to Þórsmörk hike is not to be undertaken lightly. It entails river crossings and requires all-weather gear, sturdy boots, and sufficient food and water. Most hikers walk from north to south to take advantage of the net altitude loss and the facilities at Þórsmörk. You can also continue along the Þórsmörk to Skógar track (Click here) and make a six-day trip of it.
Click here for information about mountain huts along the route.
The following gives you a run-down of the walk’s highlights:
Day 1: Landmannalaugar to Hrafntinnusker (12km, four to five hours)
Stórihver This sinister round hole, in an active geothermal zone, roars with boiling water.
Hrafntinnusker Fields of black obsidian glint in the sunlight.
Day 2: Hrafntinnusker to Álftavatn (12km, four to five hours)
Háskerðingur (side trip) Across the northern spur of the Kaldaklofsfjöll ice cap, the view from this 1278m summit is indescribable.
Álftavatn As you drop into the valley there are glorious views of Tindfjallajökull, Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull as well as many volcanic formations.
Torfahlaup (side trip) A 5km hike to where the mighty Markarfljót river is constricted and forced through a 15m-wide canyon. Looming above is