Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [237]
Getting There & Away
The Reykjavík–Höfn bus service runs daily from June to mid-September, and on Tuesday, Friday and Sunday the rest of the year.
Summer buses depart at 8.30am from Reykjavík and at 11am from Höfn (winter buses set off from Reykjavík/Höfn later in the day), and stop at Hótel Klaustur or the petrol station in Kirkjubæjarklaustur. Eastbound from Reykjavík, the bus passes Kirkjubæjarklaustur at 2.30pm (Ikr6600), continuing to Skaftafell and Jökulsárlón. Westbound from Höfn, it passes Kirkjubæjarklaustur at 1.45pm (Ikr5200), continuing on to Reykjavík.
The Fjallabak bus between Reykjavík and Skaftafell passes at around 6.15pm eastbound and at 9.30am westbound daily from mid-June to 31 August. The entire route costs Ikr9000.
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AROUND KIRKJUBÆJARKLAUSTUR
Sights
FJARÐRÁRGLJÚFUR
This peculiar and darkly picturesque canyon, carved out by the river Fjarðrá, is a humbling two million years old. A walking track follows its southern edge for a couple of kilometres, and there are plenty of places to gaze down into its rocky, writhing depths. The canyon is 3.5km north of the Ring Road; you can walk there across lava fields or drive along the Laki road (Rte 206; you’ll reach the canyon before it becomes an F road).
Around the nearby Holt farm is the small Holtsborg Nature Reserve. This is the only place in Iceland where wild roses grow naturally.
FOSS Á SIÐU & DVERGHAMRAR
Foss á Siðu, 11km east of Kirkjubæjarklaustur, is an attractive waterfall that normally tumbles down from the cliffs. During especially strong sea winds, however, it actually goes straight up! Opposite the falls is the outcrop Dverghamrar, which contains some classic basalt columns.
Sleeping & Eating
There’s quite a bit of farmhouse accommodation in the area immediately around Kirkjubæjarklaustur.
Hörgsland ( 487 6655; www.horgsland.is; sb/linen/cottages from Ikr3000/4000/9000) This place, a readers’ favourite on the Ring Road about 8km northeast of Kirkjubæjarklaustur, is like a minivillage of very spacious and comfortable self-contained cottages. The two-bedroom timber cabins sleep at least six and each have a kitchen, lounge and verandah. There are a couple of outdoor hot pots here, as well as a shop, a cafe and a petrol station, and you can arrange fishing permits and 4WD tours.
Hótel Láki/Efri-Vík ( 487 4694; www.efrivik.is; s/d cottage Ikr10,000/13,000, hotel Ikr14,000/18,500) This farm, 5km south of Kirkjubæjarklaustur on Rte 204, is a good choice. As well as beds in comfortable cottages, it has just opened a new hotel wing with large, stylish double rooms; a further extension is under construction. There’s also a nine-hole golf course, boat rental, a sauna, hot tub and lake fishing, and in 2009 the owners were building a spa.
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HELLFIRE & BRIMSTONE
The 18th-century eruptions of the volcano Laki brought death and devastation to much of southeastern Iceland, especially Kirkjubæjarklaustur. On 20 July 1783, a particularly fast-moving river of molten lava threatened to engulf the town.
The pastor Jón Steingrímsson, convinced it was due to the wickedness of his flock, gathered the terrified parishioners in the church. There he delivered a passionate hellfire-and-brimstone sermon while the appropriate special effects steamed and smoked outside. By the time the oratory ended, the flow had stopped at a rock promontory – now called Eldmessutangi (Fire Sermon Point) – just short of the town. The grateful residents credited their good reverend with some particularly effective string-pulling on their behalf.
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Hunkubakkar ( 487 4681; hunku@simnet.is; s/d Ikr12,000/16,000) This farmhouse, 7km west of Klaustur along Rtes 1 and 206, has simple parquet-floored rooms in the main building and cottages to rent in the grounds. Other facilities include a restaurant and horse hire. You’ll have to book in advance for stays between October and May.
Restaurant Geirland ( 487 4677; geirland@centrum.is; Geirland; mains Ikr1900-3200; 7-11pm Jun-Aug) This new restaurant