Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [238]
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LAKAGÍGAR
It’s almost impossible to comprehend the immensity of the Laki eruptions, one of the most catastrophic volcanic events in human history.
In the spring of 1783, a vast set of fissures opened, forming around 135 craters that took it in turns to fountain molten rock up to 1km into the air. These Skaftáreldar (River Skaftá Fires) lasted for eight months, spewing out more than 30 billion tonnes of lava, which covered an area of 500 sq km in a layer up to 19km thick. Fifty farms in the region were wiped out.
Far more devastating were the hundreds of millions of tonnes of ash and sulphuric acid that poured from the fissures. The sun was blotted out, the grass died off, and around two-thirds of Iceland’s livestock died from starvation and poisoning. Some 9000 people – a fifth of the country – were killed and the remainder faced the Moðuharðindi (Haze Famine) that followed.
The damage wasn’t limited to Iceland, either. All across the northern hemisphere clouds of ash blocked out the sun. Temperatures dropped and acid rain fell from the sky, causing devastating crop failures in Japan, Alaska and Europe (possibly even helping to spark the French Revolution).
The whole Lakagígar area is contained within the boundaries of Vatnajökull National Park. Wardens will occasionally pop out of the wilderness with brochure-maps of the area for sale. You should stick to the paths in this ecologically sensitive region.
Camping is forbidden within the Laki reserve. The nearest campsite, with a toilet and fresh water, is at Blágil, about 11km from Laki. There were also plans, on hold due to the economic troubles, to build an information centre and cabins at Galti.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
If you want to drive, Rte F206 (just west of Kirkjubæjarklaustur) is generally passable from July to early September. It’s a long 50km to the Lakagígar crater row. The road is unsuitable for 2WD cars, as there are several rivers to ford. Even low-clearance 4WD vehicles may not be suitable in the spring thaw or after rain, when the rivers tend to run deep.
From July to August you can get to the Lakagígar area on the worthwhile Reykjavík Excursions bus ( 580 5400; www.re.is). The 10-hour tour (with a jumpy CD guide) allows around 3½ hours’ walking in the crater area. It departs daily, at 8.30am from Skaftafell (Ikr10,500) and at 9.30am from the petrol station at Kirkjubæjarklaustur (Ikr7600). Bring a packed lunch.
Laki
Although Laki (818m) is extinct, it has loaned its name to the still-volatile, 25km-long Lakagígar crater row, which stretches northeastward and southwestward from its base. Laki can be climbed in about 40 minutes from the parking area, and we highly recommend it. From the top there are boundless 360-degree views of the active fissure, vast lava fields and glinting ice-white glaciers in the distance.
Lakagígar Crater Row
The Lakagígar crater row is fascinating to explore. The entire area is riddled with black sand dunes and lava tubes, many of which contain tiny stalactites. Down at the foot of Laki, marked walking paths lead you in and out of the two nearest craters, including an interesting lava tunnel – bring a torch. Another cave, two hours’ walk south of the Laki parking area, shelters a mysterious lake.
Nowadays the lava field belies the apocalypse that spawned it more than 220 years ago. Its black, twisted lava formations are overgrown with soft green moss.
Fagrifoss
Fagrifoss (Beautiful Falls) is certainly not a misnomer: this waterfall must be one of Iceland’s most bewitching, with rivulets of water pouring over a massive black rock. You’ll come to the turnoff on the way to Laki, about 22km along the F206.
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HOW TO AVOID BEING SKUA-ED
The great sandar regions on Iceland’s southern coast are the world’s largest breeding