Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [258]
If Herðubreið appears to have been made in a jelly mould, that’s not far off base. It’s another móberg mountain, formed by subglacial volcanic eruptions. In fact, if Vatnajökull was to suddenly be stripped of ice, Grímsvötn and Kverkfjöll would probably emerge looking more or less like Herðubreið.
HIKING
A topographic sheet won’t do you any good here. As serenely beautiful as Herðubreið may be, the hike can be unrelenting and frustrating if you are not properly prepared. In the spring, as the weather warms slightly, there are a lot of falling rocks, which can alter paths and topography. Clouds often shroud the mountain, which makes it difficult to find your way, especially if you are near the summit – there is only one way down the mountain! A GPS is a must. The wardens highly advise having a helmet as well.
From the Þórsteinsskáli hut a marked trail runs to Herðubreið and you can then hike all the way around it in a day. The mountain looks the same from all sides, so disorientation is a possibility, but on clear days you’ll see Kollótadyngja to the west–northwest and Herðubreiðarlindir to the east–northeast, so it shouldn’t be too much of a problem.
Herðubreið was once thought to be unclimbable, but it was eventually scaled in 1908. Under optimum conditions you can climb the mountain in summer over one very long day. The route to the top ascends the western slope. We don’t want you to get the wrong idea, however; this climb is difficult, and the threat of snow, rock falls, landslides or bad weather makes it impossible to tackle without the proper mountaineering gear. Don’t go alone, prepare for the foulest weather imaginable, and remember to inform the attendant at Herðubreiðarlindir or Askja of your intentions.
Kollótadyngja
The peak Kollótadyngja (1180m), 10km northwest of Herðubreið, is a textbook example of a shield volcano. Its broad, shieldlike cone oozed lava gently rather than exploding violently. At its base is the Ferðafélag Akureyrar Bræðrafell hut (N 65°11.310’, W 16°32.290’; sb Ikr2000), which accommodates 12 people and has a coal stove but no running water. The best access is the trail leading west from the Herðubreið circuit.
Drekagil
The name of the gorge Drekagil, 35km southwest of Herðubreið, means ‘Dragon Canyon’, after the form of a dragon in the craggy rock formations that tower over it. The canyon behind the Ferðafélag Akureyrar Dreki huts (Askja Camp; 853 2541; N 65°02.503’, W 16°35.690’; sb new/old hut Ikr3300/2800; late Jun-early Sep) resembles something out of Arizona or the Sinai; bitter winds and freezing temperatures just don’t suit this desert landscape!
The Dreki huts are an ideal base for a day or two of exploring the area. Not only does the dramatic Drekagil ravine offer an easy stroll up to an impressive waterfall, but you can also walk 9km up the road and marked trail to Askja. There is also a marked trail to the Bræðrafell hut. The huts sleep a total of 60, and there are showers, a kitchen, an information centre and a summertime warden. Camping (Ikr900 per tent) is also permitted (you’ll probably see rows of white tents set up for a local touring group), but the wind and cold can become oppressive.
At Dreki the Gæsavatnaleið route (F910) turns off the Öskjuleið to cross some intimidating expanses and connect with the Sprengisandur route at Nýidalur.
Dyngjufjöll
The stark Dyngjufjöll range, which shelters the Askja caldera and the Drekagil gorge, is what remains of a volcanic system that collapsed into its magma chamber. Þorvaldstindur, the highest point along its southern rim, rises to 1510m.
This inhospitable territory may be intriguing, but it isn’t terribly inviting to the casual hiker. If you come to explore beyond the tracks and footpaths, make careful preparations and take due precautions.
You’ll find overnight accommodation at the remote and basic Dyngjufell hut (N 65°07.480’, W 16°55.280’; sb Ikr2000), also maintained by Ferðafélag Akureyrar, northwest of the caldera.
Askja
Perversely, the cold, windy and utterly desolate Askja caldera