Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [259]
The cataclysm that formed the lake in the Askja caldera (and the Víti crater) happened relatively recently (in 1875, to be exact) when 2 cu km of tephra was ejected from the Askja volcano. The force was so strong that bits of debris actually landed in Continental Europe. Ash from the eruption poisoned large numbers of cattle in northern Iceland, sparking a wave of emigration to America. It’s quite daunting to realise that such cataclysmic events could be replayed at any time.
After the initial eruption, a magma chamber collapsed and created a craterous 11-sq-km hole, 300m below the rim of the original explosion crater. This new depression subsequently filled with water and became the sapphire-blue lake Öskjuvatn, the deepest in Iceland at 220m.
In 1907, German researchers Max Rudloff and Walther von Knebel were rowing on the lake when they completely vanished; their bodies were never found. It was suggested that the lake may have hazardous quirks, possibly odd currents or whirlpools; but a rickety canvas boat and icy water could easily explain their deaths. There’s a stone cairn and memorial to the men on the rim of the caldera (with a guest book tucked inside – look for our name!).
In the 1875 eruption a vent near the northeastern corner of the lake exploded and formed the tephra crater Víti, which contains geothermal water. Although a bit on the chilly side if you’re expecting a soothing swim (temperatures range between 22°C and 30°C), a dip in this turquoise-blue pool is one of the highlights of any Askja adventure. As always, the Icelandic way is to strip down and bathe in the nude; if you’re shy (or afraid of ‘shrinkage’), then bring a swimsuit. The route down is slippery but not as steep as it looks.
Askja’s convoluted creation and unique geology is actually quite fascinating – it’s well worth doing a bit of rock research online before your visit. A simple online search will yield dozens of informative sites.
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GÆSAVATNALEIÐ ROUTE
The 120km-long Gæsavatnaleið route (F910), also known as the Austurleið (it doesn’t pass anywhere near its namesake Gæsavötn), connects the Sprengisandur route and the Öskjuleið. There’s little traffic and the scenery is excellent. The road crosses vast lava fields and sandy stretches, and there are always high ice caps in the background. It’s not nearly as treacherous as it once was, since a new road has been built north of the old one and the largest river is now bridged. However, it’s still difficult to drive and you should only attempt this route if you have a lot of 4WD experience. It is important that you contact the warden at Askja before attempting this route. They will be able to provide you with the most up-to-date info on weather patterns and ‘road’ conditions. This trip involves a river crossing – avoid travel in the evening as the water level is always higher and you greatly increase your chances of getting stuck and sinking.
The route from Askja to Dragon Canyon opens before F910. Once this road opens up, you are advised to tackle it in one long day (it’s slow goin’ over the lava fields), as camping along the route is forbidden.
Old Gæsavatnaleið
If anyone tells you the Gæsavatnaleið is impossible, they’re speaking of the old southern route best known as the road followed by the escaping hero, Alan Stewart, in Desmond Bagley’s thriller Running Blind. It’s not really impossible, but as yet no tour company is willing to brave it and, when the new Gæsavatnaleið route opened, this route stopped being maintained. As a result, this is one of Iceland’s roughest journeys, notorious for floods and deep sand drifts. It should only be tackled with at least two hardy 4WDs – it’s also imperative that