Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [261]
It’s then a 40-minute climb to the Icelandic Glaciological Society’s six-bunk Jörfi Hut, at 1720m. There’s no water or heating, but it makes a viable ice-cap base. Nearby is the beautiful lagoon Gengissig, which was formed in a small volcanic eruption in 1961. Bring your towel – this is a great spot for a bath (Icelanders usually skinny dip). Another hour beyond the hut will take you to the highest peak of western Kverkfjöll (1860m), with a fine view over the kverk (gap) through which the Kverkfjöll glacier passes.
Hiking
A one-hour marked hike from behind Sigurðarskáli hut will take you up Virkisfell (1108m). At the top you’ll have a spectacular view over Kverkfjöll and the headwaters of the Jökulsá á Fjöllum.
If you want to reach the hot waterfall and 30°C river in Hveragil you will need to have a lengthy debriefing with the warden and bring along a GPS. It is a difficult 12-hour return trip.
TOURS
Without a robust 4WD vehicle the only way to visit Kverkfjöll is on a tour. If you do have your own vehicle you can park and walk up to the ice caves – anywhere further is strictly ill-advised. The park rangers offer trips from the base hut on all days with good weather. It’s a four-hour trip to the glacier with crampons (Ikr3000) and an eight- to nine-hour trip to the geothermal area (Ikr7000). You must wear walking boots that cover the ankle; otherwise your crampons will not fit properly. Runners simply won’t work. Call 863 9236 for tour details. Besides the warden-led tours, the only other way to get the full picture of Kverkfjöll and have the possibility to mount the glacial crown is to join a tour from Möðrudalur. The most convenient option, however, is the popular three-day Askja–Kverkfjöll–Vatnajökull tour ( Akureyri 550 0700, Reykjavík 550 0770; www.sba.is), run by SBA-Norðurleið. It leaves on Monday from early July to mid-August from Akureyri (Ikr25,000, 8.30am) and Mývatn (Ikr24,000, 11am).
For all of these trips you must bring your own food and organise your own accommodation (either book a hut or bring a tent). Hiking boots or other strong footwear, a sleeping bag and warm clothing are essential.
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Gateway to Greenland & the Faeroes
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CONTENTS
Getting There & Away
Tours
Greenland
Faeroes
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For many visitors Iceland provides a stepping stone to the wild, mysterious lands of Greenland and the Faeroes. Both are easily accessible and, although the journey may poke a hole in your wallet, it’s more cost effective than planning a separate trip, especially since you’ve already come this far. Air Iceland’s regular summer flights to Kulusuk, Constable Point, Nuuk, Ilulissat and Narsarsuaq make it easy to tag on a trip to Greenland, while regular flights (or extended ferry layovers) to the Faeroes allow you to easily discover these little-visited islands once used as a stopping point for Viking explorers.
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GETTING THERE & AWAY
Air
GREENLAND
Iceland’s main domestic carrier, Air Iceland (Flugfélag Íslands; in Iceland 570 3030; www.airiceland.is), flies from the domestic airport in downtown Reykjavík (REK) to a variety of destinations in Greenland, including Kulusuk (two hours, Monday to Saturday May to mid-September), Constable Point (two hours, once or twice weekly), Narsarsuaq (three hours, twice weekly late May to mid-September), Nuuk (three hours, four times weekly June to August, twice weekly May and early September) and Ilulissat (three hours 15 minutes, twice weekly mid-June to August). Due to the immense popularity of these Greenland tours, the roster of flights and destinations continues to grow with each passing season.
Air Greenland ( 299 34 34 34; www.airgreenland.com) code-shares with Air Iceland, offering continuing helicopter service on the east coast from Kulusuk and Constable Point to the secluded settlements