Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [262]
FAEROES
In summer, Air Iceland code-shares with the Faeroese airline Atlantic Airways ( 298 34 10 00; www.atlantic.fo), offering direct service from the domestic airport in downtown Reykjavík (REK) to Vágar (FAE) in the Faeroes.
In the warmer months (between 30 June and 18 September) there are two or three flights a week – there’s always a Friday flight and the other flight(s) run on weekdays. During the off-season (from 29 March to 29 June, and 19 September to 24 October) there is a flight on Monday and Friday. With a bit of planning, you can nab a one-way ticket for Dkr495 (Ikr12,000), which is comparable to Iceland’s domestic airfares.
Atlantic Airways also offers air service to London (Stansted), Stavanger, Copenhagen, Aalborg and Billund, making the Faeroes an intriguing layover option if you are flying between Iceland and any of these destinations.
Due to the jagged topography and thick tufts of fog, it is sometimes difficult to land at Vágar. If the plane cannot land, it will be rerouted to Norway or back to Iceland where you’ll spend the night (paid for by the airline, of course) and try again the following day. Inclement weather can also delay take-offs, so plan accordingly if you have travel connections. This is usually only an inconvenience in July.
Sea
Smyril Line ( 298 34 59 00; www.smyril-line.com) car ferries link Iceland to Denmark, stopping at Tórshavn in the Faeroes along the way. Click here for details.
Return to beginning of chapter
TOURS
To get the most out of a short trip to Greenland you may wish to join an organised tour. If you’re visiting Greenland from Iceland, then consider joining one of the well-liked Air Iceland tours. A popular option is the day trip to Kulusuk (see the boxed text, below); however, Greenland’s ultimate beauty unfurls during lengthier stays. Air Iceland’s longer-stay trips include an eight-day fishing trip to Kuussuaq, a five-day stay in Nuuk, the capital, and a three-day culture-focused visit to Ammassalik, where first contact with the local Inuit was made a mere 95 years ago.
Greenland’s tourism board has a hands-on website featuring a detailed list of the preferred tour operators and travel agencies offering trips through the island. Check out www.greenland.com/content/english/press_agents/greenland_travel_planner/travel_agencies for regularly updated details — operators are sorted by country. The website also features a handy travel planner for those who prefer to design their own journey. This is starting to become a viable option as the local tourism infrastructure continues to develop.
Like Greenland, the Faeroes tourism website (www.visitfaroeislands.com) has a drop-down list of accredited tour operators and cruises sorted by nation. The leading travel agency in the Faeroes is GreenGate Incoming ( 298 35 05 20; www.greengate.fo; Jónas Broncksg⊘ta 35, FO-100 Tórshavn). All-inclusive package trips are widely available, however the Faeroes’ small size makes it quite easy to base yourself in Tórshavn and arrange a variety of day trips (see opposite for ideas).
* * *
A DAY IN GREENLAND
A convenient halfway-point between Europe and North America, Reykjavík has developed quite the reputation as a trendy layover destination. Tourists who are tight on time tend to use the capital as a base for scenic day trips. Glacial lagoons, geysers, lava fields and windswept islands can be tackled before nightfall, but few people realise that a trip to Greenland can easily fit into the itinerary. In summer, Air Iceland offers regular tours to the faraway community of Kulusuk in east Greenland. Hidden in an endless tapestry of icy whites and cool blues, Kulusuk represents the ultimate frontier.
With only 360 inhabitants (and no flushing toilets), the little village slowly reveals itself to day-trippers