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Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [41]

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snowfields may overlay rock and ice fissures, so technical expertise and equipment are essential. Crampons, ropes and ice axes are needed for any walk on glacial ice, and clothing must be able to withstand extreme conditions, especially on alpine climbs.

Unless you’re proficient, experienced and well prepared, the best way to get involved in mountaineering is with a locally organised expedition. For more information try the Iceland Touring Association Ferðafélag Íslands ( 568 2533; www.fi.is) or the commercial outfit Mountain Guides ( 587 9999; www.mountainguide.is). For information on routes and conditions, visit www.outdoors.is/mountaineering.


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SEA ANGLING & FISHING

These days it seems like every fjord has a local sea-angling outfitter who will take you for an afternoon out on the waves. You’ll find exceptional sea angling along the central peninsulas of the Westfjords and in Iceland’s northeast corner.

Iceland’s salmon fly-fishing is world renowned, but try it on the most popular lakes and rivers and it could be some of the most expensive fishing you’ll ever do. One-day licences can cost up to Ikr250,000 on the Laxá river near Mývatn, and that’s before you pay for gear hire, a guide or transport. The good news is that with all the celebrity fishers in the one place, you can safely avoid them by heading for some of the country’s cheaper rivers, where day licences cost a more reasonable Ikr20,000 per day (book in advance). The salmon-fishing season runs from early June to mid-September.

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TAKE A HIKE! RESPONSIBLE TREKKING TIPS IN ICELAND

Before embarking on a walking trip, consider the following points to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience that minimises your impact on the environment:

Obtain reliable local information about conditions along your intended route.

Be aware of local regulations about wildlife and the environment.

Walk only in regions, and on trails, within your realm of experience.

Check weather forecasts before setting out, and be prepared for dramatic changes in temperature and outlook. Icelandic weather is very fickle and conditions can deteriorate quickly.

Stick to existing trails and avoid short cuts. Hillsides and mountain slopes, especially at high altitudes, are prone to erosion; walk through, rather than around, muddy patches so as not to increase the size of the patch. Avoid removing the plant life that keeps topsoils in place.

Do not light camp fires. Bring a stove for cooking.

Carry out all your rubbish.

Where there is a toilet, use it. Where there is none, bury your waste in a hole 15cm (6in) deep and at least 100m (320ft) from any watercourse. Cover the waste with soil and a rock. In snow, dig down to the soil.

Use biodegradable soaps, detergents or toothpastes and wash at least 50m (160ft) away from any watercourse. Disperse the waste water widely to allow the soil to filter it fully. Wash cooking utensils 50m (160ft) from watercourses using a scourer, sand or snow instead of detergent.

Don’t feed the wildlife, and keep food and gear out of reach of animals.

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From April to mid-September you can also fish for rainbow trout, sea trout and Arctic char on a more reasonably priced voucher system. Ice fishing is also possible in some areas in winter.

For further information, contact the National Angling Association ( 553 1510; www.angling.is).


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SEA KAYAKING

Kayaking is gaining popularity, particularly in the calm, accessible waters of the Eastfjords and the rugged Westfjords. The best place in Iceland to go sea kayaking is around the Hornstrandir Reserve – Click here for details. In the Eastfjords, you can go out on guided kayaking trips in Seyðisfjörður and Neskaupstaður. Further south, try the lagoons of Stokkseyri. A number of Reykjavík-based adventure-tour operators include kayaking in their programs (Click here).


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SKIING

Iceland has some enjoyable, little-known slopes offering pleasant, no-frills skiing. In winter cross-country skiing is possible throughout

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