Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [42]
Akureyri and the surrounding hills along Eyjafjörður have the best downhill skiing in the country. Hlíðarfjall is the top spot to swish across the snow, although the slopes at nearby Ólafsfjörður, Siglufjörður and Dalvík are comparatively good as well. Further afield, you’ll find basic resorts in Ísafjörður, Húsavík and Eskifjörður.
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CROSSING RIVERS
While trekking or driving in Iceland’s highlands you’ll undoubtedly face unbridged rivers that must be crossed – a frightening prospect for the uninitiated. Don’t panic – there are a few simple rules to follow.
Melting snow and ice cause water levels to rise, so the best time to cross is early in the morning before the day warms up, and preferably no sooner than 24 hours after a rainstorm. Avoid narrow stretches, which are likely to be deep – the widest ford will likely be shallowest. The swiftest, strongest current is found near the centre of straight stretches and at the outside of bends. Choose a spot with as much slack water as possible.
Never try to cross just above a waterfall and avoid crossing streams in flood (identifiable by dirty, smooth-running water carrying lots of debris and vegetation). A smooth surface suggests that the river is too deep to be crossed on foot. Anything more than thigh deep isn’t crossable without experience and extra equipment.
Before attempting to cross deep or swift-running streams, be sure that you can jettison your pack in midstream if necessary. Unhitch the waist belt and loosen shoulder straps, and remove long trousers and any bulky clothing that will inhibit swimming. Lone hikers should use a hiking staff to probe the river bottom for the best route and to steady themselves in the current.
Never try to cross a stream barefoot – slicing your feet open on sharp rocks will really spoil your holiday. Consider bringing a pair of wetsuit boots or sandals if you want to keep your hiking boots dry. While crossing, face upstream and avoid looking down or you may risk getting dizzy and losing your balance. Two hikers can steady each other by resting their arms on each other’s shoulders.
If you do fall while crossing, don’t try to stand up. Remove your pack (but don’t let go of it), roll over onto your back, and point your feet downstream, then try to work your way to a shallow eddy or to the shore.
Crossing glacial rivers can be very dangerous in a vehicle. It’s best to wade across your intended route first, as described above, to check the depth. Work with the water – drive diagonally across in the direction of the current, making sure you’re in a low gear. Try to drive steadily, just slightly faster than the water is flowing (too slow and you risk getting stuck, or letting water up the exhaust). If you’re not travelling in convoy, consider waiting for other traffic.
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Reykjavík also has downhill resorts with ski rental and instructors, though Bláfjöll and Skálafell (see the boxed text), the two closest to Reykjavík, get very busy.
Expect to pay anywhere between Ikr800 and Ikr2000 for combination day and evening lift tickets.
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SNOWBOARDING & SNOWKITING
Snowboarding is slowly becoming more popular, and dedicated trails and terrain parks can be found at Bláfjöll near Reykjavík and in Akureyri.
Snowkiting (high-adrenalin snowboarding with a kite) is also taking off in Iceland. For more information or to organise a trip, contact Vindsport (http://snowkiter.co.uk).
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SNOWMOBILING
Tearing around an ice cap on a snowmobile can be exhilarating, but for most travellers an hour or two is more then enough. For glacier tours the best places are Snæfellsjökull, Mýrdalsjökull, Vatnajökull and Langjökull, and the cost is about Ikr6000 to Ikr12,000 per hour, including transport and gear.
While high-altitude glacier tours run from April to August, from January to May there are possibilities for snowmobiling in